I found a table under a slowly revolving fan. As it was quite difficult to choose from the tantalizing dishes on the menu I ordered thali. This consists of rice and a number of curried vegetable dishes, relishes, papadams, and a dessert.Thalis come in all prices. They are filling and tasty. It's served on a round tray on which several small metal bowls, containing most delicous curried vegetables and raiti (yogurt with cucumber).

The locals were eating with their fingers but I am not so skillful, so I cheated and used the spoon which was meant to be used for the raiti. Even Indians can’t eat yogurt with their fingers! My husband ordered feni, I had a sip but could appreciate it. Feni is made from the cashew apple. I prefer the nut! The cashew nut ripens inside the cashew apple. This nut is separated from the apple, dried and then eaten. The apple has another more potent purpose. They are trampled by foot, the juices are collected, left to ferment and finally distilled. The first distillation yields 'uraq' 10 - 15 per cent proof. The second distillation produces Goa's national drink; Feni 30 - 35 per cent proof.

I finished my meal with 'chai', tea. I must admit it's an acquired taste, tea prepared the Indian way. Tea, cold water, milk and sugar, or sweetened condensed milk are brought to the boil and stewed for a long time. Actually, it's quite tasty as long as you don't expect a "cuppa".

If you find your food too spicy and your mouth is on fire DON'T reach for water or beer. Raita, fruit or in fact anything sweet, a spoonful of sugar, will do the trick.

There is no such thing as "curry" or prepacked curry powder. This is a British invention. Spices are blended in certain combinations. They are freshly ground in mortar and pestle. The well-known garam masala is in fact a combination of cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, coriander, cumin, and peppercorns. That's why home made curry or masala never tastes the same.