A coffee menu awaits you at each table. There are lists of hot and cold drinks, with coffee, of course, leading the way. Our phrasebook, however, was no match for the Austrian dialect. Cafe mit Obers? A coffee with a waiter? No, that's not right. A discussion with a friend whom I met in Munich also caused confusion on her part: "It must be Austrian dialect. Perhaps it means cream." And, sure enough, it was a cute little porcelain pitcher of cream that accompanied my strong, dark coffee. My brother chose the equivalent of a milk coffee... whose name I've completely forgetten now.

An impeccably dressed waiter takes your coffee order. An equally impeccably dressed waitress comes around with a large assortment of cakes balanced on a large tray. Feel free to ask her what's in them all! My brother chose the Sachertorte straight away. After much hemming and hawing, I finally chose an elaborate, round chocolate confection topped with pureed sweet chestnuts. When our coffee came, he waved aside my attempt to pay him and told us to pay him before we left.

The coffee was strong. The pastries were divine. The Sachertorte was rich but not too cloying--the apricot jam helping the slight dryness of the cake. My confection was better (my brother disagrees)--three layers of cake separated by a buttercream were surrounded by a chocolate wrapping. On top sat a dollop of a red-fruit jam, and then pureed sweet chestnut covered that. It was everything I expected of a Viennese confection!

You are free to linger over your coffee and at your table for as long as you require. No one was going to chase us out. The cafe also provides newspapers if you should wish to peruse them.