3 Sisters overlooks the largest Buddhist stupa in Nepal and never stops buzzing all day and into the night. A constant stream of passers-by, locals and travellers, cross paths in this cafe-cum-restaurant for the masses. There's two storeys. The bottom is home to the kitchen where a range of traditional and western meals are freshly prepared by a skilled band of Tibetan artisans. They like their work and it shows. The offerings even extend to a mouth-watering display of pastries and cakes baked fresh every day. Now that's gotta keep the crowds coming. In front of the kitchen (and pastry display cases) is a cafe area that tends to get used mainly for quick meals and the drop-in crowd.

Upstairs is a quieter restaurant-type area where the unobscured views over the stupa are, you guessed it, stupendous - sorry about that. There's a bright, minimalist decor with cool art on the walls. The conversations vary from the day's trekking highlights to Buddhist meditation courses and you'll meet monks keen to chat and world-travellers keen to, well, chat.

The food is as good as the atmosphere. The serves are large and the service proffesional and attentive. Despite its popularity and a constant crowd streaming through, they never hurry you along. If you want to share a pot of lemon tea and a chat with a friend then you're just as welcome as a table of eight gluttonous travellers. We had many of our meals here and tried everything from fresh fruit pancakes and Tibetan bread to tofu curries, dhal, fried chicken and kothe momos. Oh, and the lassis here were some of the best we had. Hell, it was all good. And we never paid more than 350rp for a meal, with drinks - I've attached one of our bills here.

It's (understandably) popular with locals and tourists alike so expect a crowd, but somehow we always managed a table. Go early if you want to guarantee prime position over the stupa for an unforgettable evening meal.