Won Stew House is the new kid on the Milpitas Square block, occupying a small nook on the north half of the shopping center. And Won Stew House it is. Most dishes here have been cooked in the Taiwanese style of stewing, with long soaks in a soy-based bath at low temperatures to produce tender meats that are flavorful down to the bone. The meats range from more mundane fare, like simmered beef shank and salty chicken, to the more unusual, like simmered pig heart or duck tongue.
Several "cold dim sum" options are meant to complement the stewed items ($3 to $5). Pick what you want from a refrigerated display case, where items wait in clear plastic boxes so you can see what you’re getting. Most have been simmered or pickled, like the preserved vegetable, a chopped leafy vegetable that becomes sweet and sour like bread and butter pickles after preserving. The pickle and bean sheet has chopped greens and soybeans mixed with shreds of bean curd sheets. They are cool, crunchy, and salty.
The lunch crowd can choose one of several hot lunch boxes to go ($5.50 to $6.50). Each lunch box comes with a generous portion of fresh vegetables, rice, meat sauce, a salty hard-boiled egg, and a wedge of braised bean curd. The beef shank lunch box features a shank the size of a medium potato thinly sliced to expose marbling of beef with the tendon, connective tissue that becomes slightly chewy and gelatinous after cooking. The tendon is prized for its health benefits, especially for joint problems. The shank is tender, and there is the aroma of star anise. The unagi lunch box comes with three small strips of barbecued eel, which are delicate and sweet.
Less interesting is the handful of rice or noodle lunches, like chicken cold noodle or shrimp fried rice ($5.50 and $6.50). Satay beef chow mein is made of wheat noodles tossed in a weak curry sauce with a small amount of napa cabbage and beef.
Won Stew House also has an assortment of sweets, like smoothies and green or red bean soup. Skip the red bean and Taiwanese taro ball soup, where the purple taro balls are chewy and uninteresting, and bob among red beans that are hard instead of creamy ($3). Instead, opt for one of several smoothies, like mocha or lychee, well priced at $2.