Wahoo’s story is a twist on the American dream. Three Chinese brothers from Brazil developed a passion for fish tacos while surfing in Mexico, and in 1988, offered their unique version of the fish taco to Southern California. There are now over 30 locations. The San Jose branch is the first in Northern California.
The menu is "eclectic Mexican/Brazilian/Asian" with a "Hawaiian North Shore vibe." Bamboo sticks are tied to supporting metal beams, giving the place the look of an urban shanty. Surfboards hang from the rafters, and surf stickers hold the walls in place. Though most entrees carry familiar Mexican names (e.g., enchilada, tacos, burritos), these aren’t your average south-of-the-border pickings. You’ll find Polynesian-style shrimp as an option on many dishes. Carne asada (lean steak) has been marinated in soy sauce. Also, there are no red rice or refried beans here; instead, find "Ahi" rice and black beans or spicy Cajun white beans. Ahi rice is white rice mixed with parsley and contains no Ahi tuna, as its name suggests.
Wahoo has a short list of appetizers and starters, like Maui Onion Rings, Quesadillas, and Taquitos. Chicken Tortilla Soup is made with carrots, onions, cabbage, and white cubes of chicken breast ($2.49). The soup comes steaming and spicy hot, despite the "mildly spicy" menu description. More lime would have added depth. Polynesian-style shrimp added to quesadillas were plump, but left me suspecting the qualifier "Polynesian-style" is a bit like when people describe themselves as "spiritual" –- what it means is not readily apparent.
The hardest part about choosing your entree is the filling. Tacos, enchiladas, and burritos come with your choice of flame-broiled or blackened fish or chicken, steak, braised lean pork, blackened mushrooms, sautéed shrimp, or vegetables. Try the Wahoo –- a white-fleshed fish with a mild taste similar to mahi mahi (at one time, Wahoo was plentiful near Oahu, Hawaii, which accounts for its name, but a more imaginative explanation attributes the name to the sound made by the lucky ones who got away). The white morsels of fish are as tender and fresh as the young man who takes your order.
The runner-up is carne asada, which is tender and flavorful. Chicken is white breast meat and tends to be dry. If you’re not a fan of spicy, skip the "blackened" choices.
Tacos here are "soft"; two corn tortillas plate a small amount of filling, two kinds of cheese, and a heap of shredded greens ($5.49 for the Two Taco combination platter). Cabbage tops the seafood fillings, and green lettuce is used for the meats. Black beans, Cajun white beans, or a mix of both accompany combination platters. Beans have not been simmered to creaminess, but perhaps beans are like mattresses –- some people like them firm.
Surf’s up at Wahoo. Go experience the American dream.