November 12, 2003
We arrived without reservations and were immediately seated in a pleasant courtyard. In the wooden structure with the sounds of birdsong and running water, you feel as if you were dining in the jungle rather than Sukhumvit. Lanterns provide a warm light to the tables.
HFS offers frozen and iced drinks. I tried the iced coffee - delicious. Sample some of their drinks, as the spiciness of the food could overcome most Westerners.
We both ordered a salad and a soup, and shared. My soup was a hot-and-sour soup with chunks of chicken on the bone. My partner ordered a lemongrass-based soup. We ordered a pork salad and a spicy mango salad. The hot and cold temperatures in our meal added to the delicious contrast in flavors. My girlfriend, who often orders the spiciest dish on the menu, admitted it was the hottest food she had ever had. Ditto! Nevertheless, the food tasted so divine that we kept eating through the pain, with generous sips of the iced drinks, of course!
They also had the cutest waiters! Although we got through the meal through pointing and smiling, they really enjoyed our attempt to thank them in Thai. Too bad I told our waiter the equivalent of "Thank you, ma'am." I caught one of them doing an Elvis impersonation while we were waiting for the bill.
Getting there is the hardest part. We took public transportation, but you might be better off with a cab.
Skytrain to Phrom Phong, which puts you on Sukhumvit. You are between Soi 25 and Soi 26 at this point, approximately. At any rate, you want to walk down Soi 26 and follow the signs to Hualomphong Food Station. You turn off Soi 26 at a nightclub, where there is a sign. This is about a 15-minute walk through a sometimes desolate upscale neighborhood of gated communities. This unnamed road seemed to connect to Soi 34. I don't know why you wouldn't just come down Soi 34 instead, but the road where HFS is located seems deserted. We followed the guidebook's directions, given above, because we had gotten so lost the night before.
One Last Note
The next day, we had miserable food poisoning that stayed with us for the remainder of our stay in Europe. My nurse told me that sometimes a chili could burn your entire intestinal tract. It also could have been the ice in the drinks, or the salads. This is a highly-rated restaurant, serving the best food we ate on the whole trip. I can't say I regret our meal, despite the unfortunate aftermath. If that's not an endorsement, I don't know what is.
From journal Asia Sampler: One Night in Bangkok