If you're like me and read about one of Guatemala’s seafood specialties, 'ceviche', you'll want to head to Peroleto. Ceviche is a mix of raw fish or shellfish, chopped fresh onion, tomato, and cilantro, all marinated in lime juice, which magically 'cooks' what was raw. Peroleto is north of the bus station and market on Avenida Santa Lucia—it’s a fine cafe that serves up a mean ceviche. I learned that ceviche is a daytime thing, so head over for lunch.They served me at dinner anyway, but I was the only one eating the dish. They'll let you choose what types of seafood you'd like in your ceviche. Each addition costs a fraction of a dollar more. I chose shrimp and caracol (snail).
Do not try to order a milk-based beverage, even though Peroleto offers them. Your waiter should warn you, like mine did, that milk and ceviche will "blow up" in your stomach. Of course, they suggested a cold bottle of Gallo, the local beer. Besides beer, I happily munched my ceviche with saltines and added ketchup, worsteshire sauce, and salsa picante to the ceviche at various stages during the meal. It was all I had hoped for. Beyond the great food, there was good conversation with folks who were there, I think, mainly for the Gallo at that hour. I saw many tourists pop in, but locals dominated. I must have continued ordering, because with all the Gallo in me, I tripped over each cobblestone on the walk home.
Peroleto is a must-try!