The elegant neighborhood of Chiado offers a nice divergence from Bairro Alto’s hipper but shabbier streets. What was formerly a popular district with early 20th-century writers and thinkers has now become a shopping Mecca. Rua Garrett and Rua do Carmo are two of the main shopping streets in this area, where you’ll find a long strip of stores like Hermes, Diesel, Zara, Benetton, H&M, and other chains, as well as small souvenir shops.
Such hard work can fuel an appetite, so, when you’re ready for a break, take advantage of one of the many old-fashioned outdoor cafés along the strip.
Pastelaria Benard is an enchanting restaurant, tearoom, pastry shop, and croissanterie. Slow-moving ceiling fans and a key central location make it an optimum place to stop for a little lunch and people watching. Even though the Brasileira Café next door gets all the credit in tourist books, it also gets about double the amount of tourist traffic.
Our lunch was delicious — I had a tuna salad that came lavishly topped with boiled egg, beans, and various veggies. My boyfriend ordered the grilled chicken salad, which was equally good. With coffee and two pastries, the bill came to €26.75.
Even if you’re not hungry, the sweet, comforting aroma of croissants baking in the kitchen is a good enough reason to make a pit stop at this adorable café.