As the TV commercials for this Austin institution brought to Houston in 2000 say, "I can’t help it, I gotta tell ya — Katz’s never closes!" This always open, New York style Jewish deli serves up huge sandwiches and burgers, good dinner entrees, great breakfasts, and if you have room, wonderful desserts. For New York lovers, the restaurant’s décor offers you a small slice of the Big Apple right here in H-Town, with subway signs, skyline photos, and other New York paraphernalia covering the walls. Katz’s is usually crowded, but rarely have I had to wait more than 20 minutes for a table, as service tends to be pretty fast and the restaurant seats a lot of people. The biggest crowds frequently are not at mealtime, but between midnight and 2:00 a.m. on weekends, as the restaurant is a very popular place to stop for a meal after visiting the clubs and bars in Montrose and downtown.

Katz’s food tends to run from good to very good, with a few outstanding options. My personal favorites are the deli burger with cheddar cheese and grilled onions, meatball sub, fried chicken, and kosher style foot long hot dog with sauerkraut. When ordering, be sure to pay close attention to the menu, as some sandwiches come with sides and others do not. As for side orders, if the cheese stuffed potato is an option with your sandwich or entrée, order it!. This is a true delicacy that I have not seen anywhere else. Think potato latke only thicker and more solid, stuffed with a gooey blend of melted cheeses, served with sour cream on the side. While not on any diet plan, this is one of those foods that is definitely worth spending a little extra time on the treadmill for. And, speaking of fattening foods, Katz’s offers a cheesecake milkshake that’s made with an entire slice of their New York style cheesecake blended with milk and ice cream. Katz’s is also well known for its breakfasts, which are available 24 hours a day. Keep in mind that this is a Jewish deli, so there are no pork products on the menu. Bacon, ham, and hot dogs contain no pork.

My only real complaint with Katz’s Deli would be the service. While generally good, on several occasions my friends and I have encountered a waiter who was less than attentive, and on one occasion, very abrupt and rude. Fortunately more often than not service is prompt and the staff is very friendly. Often owner Barry Katz is seen bringing out orders from the kitchen to tables and meandering through the dining room asking diners about their food and service. I have not had any service problems on visits where I saw Barry working the dining room, but with a restaurant that never closes, he obviously cannot be there all of the time.

• Hours: Open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year
• Website: www.ilovekatzs.com
• Metro Routes: 82 Westheimer, 34 Montrose Crosstown.