For 15 years, Katahdin has been tempting the palette of the lucky residents of Portland. I am at a loss to understand why all my research on Portland didn’t bring this restaurant automatically to my attention. It somehow seems to have fallen below the Internet radar. It was amazingly crowded both nights we were there; I think it must be one of those restaurants that are primarily a local favorite.
The exterior is very understated, with a black awning and the word restaurant, no hint of the treasure that is within. The building itself was formerly a bus station, and the brick walls, exposed pipes, and vents give it a bright and casual feel. One wall has a pretty oak bar where an excellent variety of martinis and brews can be had. We opted for the later; both of us trying the shipyard export. It is a dark golden ale with a smooth but strong taste. It is very interesting, so it is worth having more than one. The first night, we started with a spiked coffee, mine with Grand Marnier and Cindy’s with Frangelica.
They were as pretty as they were heart-warming. Try not to fill up on the foccacia and olive oil, as it is outstanding.
I can’t recommend the mussels here enough. They are string grown and the tenderest and cleanest mussels I have ever eaten. They are served in a butter broth with citrus and fennel.
The fennel is an inspired choice, and the crunch and the distinctive licorice taste was amazing.
I ordered the roast duck breast with Oregon blackberry puree. Frankly, I thought I had died and gone to heaven. There were tender slices of duck straddled a bed of whipped garlic mashed potatoes with a layer of sweet greens on top. There were two whole blackberries gracing the side of the plate, and the piece de resistance the blackberry puree.
I finished it off with a slice of pear and a caramel tart on a pecan cookie crust. Divine is an overused but wholly appropriate description. Imagine slices of tender pear drizzled with caramel sitting on a crust of pecan sandies.
For the second dinner, I chose the mussels again, followed by a bowl of fish chowder and a salad of baby spinach with Fuji apples, pecans, Gorgonzola croutons, and sherry vinaigrette. The chowder was rich but not thick; it had plenty of fish and potatoes, a very satisfying concoction. The salad was perfect, and the crouton was a Melba toast of sorts with Gorgonzola spread on it.
Cindy had the pan-roasted Dayboat scallops with Thai basil, coconut milk, and ginger. Yum. For dessert, she had the ginger molasses cake with whipped cream. It was a very sophisticated take on gingerbread. Service was flawless. It was pricey but worth every penny.