Ukai Toriyma is a traditional style Japanese restaurant set in the most beautiful imaginable surroundings. To many this is the Japan they would like to remember or at least encounter.

The restaurant consists of about 40 wooden buildings in a traditional style with thatch roofs in a beautiful garden setting. The garden has all the elements expected of a Japanese garden ranging from water features such as waterfalls, streams and ponds with khoi (carp) as well as carefully trimmed trees, narrow pathways leading to viewpoints to surprise and enchant the visitor. All rooms have huge windows looking out onto the garden and from most you can feed the khoi leftover rice after the meal.

The food is fairly plain and simple but generally good and filling. You have basically a choice of courses ranging in price from yen 4,500 to 8,500. The main specialty is jidori no robatayaki (organic chicken cooked on a grill - yes it sounds better in Japanese!). The course will start with sashimi and other appetizers but the main course is chicken that the guests grill themselves on small round grills after dipping the chicken in a sweet teriyaki sauce. Seasonal vegetables such as green peppers and leeks accompany the meat. The more expensive sets have red meat in addition to the chicken. Dessert will, unfortunately for many foreigners, include copious amounts of sweet red beans in various forms. Drinks are basically limited to beer, sake and tea.

The best time to arrive is slightly before dark so you can appreciate the gardens in daylight before the meal and again lit up after eating. Autumn is generally the most beautiful time of the year as the mountains surrounding Ukai Toriyama are famous for their foliage. However, the garden is enchanting year round and cherry blossom season is of course no exception!

Ukai Toriyama is close to Mt Takao, a favorite area for hiking and the energetic should consider hiking up to the mountaintop before dinner. The area is especially spectacular during autumn. A return journey, most routes are a simple stroll, will take about two and a half hours and can be sped up if the ropeway is in operation. Many people are surprised to find such rugged greenery and mountains inside the Tokyo municipal borders.

The problem with Ukai Toriyama is that it is slightly off the beaten track. It takes about an hour by express train from Shinjuku station to get there - Keio Express to Takao Sanguchi station. A free shuttle bus departs from the station to the restaurant every 20 minutes - a 10-minute journey.

Reservations are essential.