The menu is the same at lunch or dinner. The restaurant is tastefully decorated in soft colors, and there is a terrace where you can eat in warm weather, though I think you'd be inhaling exhaust from the passing cars. The food is characteristic of the southwest of France, with hearty fish dishes, game and some Basque influences in the flavors. Three prix fixe menus are offered, and you can also order a la carte (though it is much more expensive). At lunch, it seems to be popular with businessmen who enjoy good food and good wine, with perhaps a fine Armagnac after the meal, but we have never felt it is stuffy in attitude.

On our last visit, my husband and I started with a sardine and eggplant Napoleon with phyllo pastry. We both really liked the strong, rustic flavors. Other fish appetizers on previous visits had also been well prepared. Marinated mackeral with mustard mousseline was also very assertive, but a shellfish flan with saffron was subtle and delicate. I had an excellent stuffed rabbit and he had duck confit, which was extremely salty, even to my salt-loving husband. On a previous visit, he had thinly sliced veal in verbena jus, which was much more delicate in flavor. For dessert, my husband had a traditional Southwest dessert of tortiere -- apples, raisins and figs in a phyllo crust. I had a vanilla parfait (which is like a frozen mousse, not a layered ice cream dish). Including a bottle of wine, the meal was about $35 each, which is a bargain considering the quality of food and service.

Especially if you are going for dinner, consider taking a cab; the Bercy metro stop is about ½ mile away. During the day, it is quite safe to walk there from the Metro, walking past the huge Bercy Omnisport stadium. Be aware that it is definitely away from tourist-central.