The restaurant is basically a large drawing room filled with mismatched chairs, wing chairs, settees, ottomans and sideboards. For example, the first seats available to you and your companion may be a cozy loveseat where you'll be eating off a low coffee table. These unusual seating arrangements give the feeling of being a guest in a grand salon, participating in what the French feel are their god-given rights: eating good food and discussing the world while doing so. It becomes the perfect place to eat with a group as the the furniture is quite movable and clustered into groups. If you must sit in a traditional place setting, there are tables and chairs in the back (which you may have to wait for) where it's much quieter.

Doormouse serves a very fresh tasting brunch at a fair price. To accompany the basket of bread, I tried the baked eggs with cream, chives and bacon, a delicious alternative to the "benedict" style of egg preparation. My friend ate an omelette with cream cheese and fresh mint leaf filling, an inspired combination. The service is a bit harried because the room is so full, but remember, you didn't come just to eat. You came to talk and listen.