by Eve Carr
March 8, 2001
Walk into this elegantly appointed restaurant, just off the lobby of the boutique Wedgewood Hotel, and you’ll be transported to a relaxing, restful ambiance where you are pampered with outstanding service.
The striking visual beauty of fresh florals, the subtle aroma of fragrant potpourri, light from the soft, subdued votive candles, and the warming glow from the fireplace create a soft, romantic atmosphere, while plush wing chairs and cozy banquettes and generously spaced tables invite you to sit back and relax. Dark wood paneling, and rich paintings add an old-world charm to the setting, while the soft, soothing live piano adds even more romantic ambiance. I wonder how many proposals have been made in this ultra-romatic setting?
The settting at Bacchus is a perfect apéritif for a dining experience that will make your taste buds smile. Tonight the Valentine´s Day Menu for Two is a perfect example of how the cuisine matches the elegant ambiance. The Pave of Smoked Salmon, with just a hint of horseradish and capers, was a very delicate beginning. Its subtle flavor sets up the palate for the Consommé Princess with a surprising Quenelle of Chicken Mousseline. The accompanying Chilean, Cabernet Sauvignon had an excellent fruity bouquet and smooth finish. The hearts of butter lettuce, presented in an almost bouquet-like arrangement, was perfectly dressed with just a hint of sweet raspberry vinaigrette.
The Roasted Free-Range Chicken Breast was tender, moist, and the Sauce Supreme of the creamed leeks was subtle enough to let the natural flavor of the free range chicken make its own statement.
The Napa Valley Caymus Conundrum 1998 chosen by Sommelier Fergus O´Halloran to accompany the chicken was a very complex blend with a subtly fruity nose, spicy taste, buttery quality, and very clean, satisfying finish. Similarly, the Angus Beef Fillet let the flavor of outstanding meat speak for itself, but the chef´s accompaniment of eggplant caviar and wild mushroom and Madeira sauce enhanced the flavor without intruding.
The Dessert Platter for two is the perfect romantic finish to a sensuous meal. The Rose Petal Ice Cream truly had the flavor of a June walk in rose garden. The Mile-Feuille of Filo with Raspberries and Fresh Mango Cream and White Chocolate Tart blended into a valentine for the pallet. This is not the time to count calories, folks.
We understand that the cuisine served up by the Bacchus’s present chef, Frank Dodd, is not to be missed. Dodd is part of a new breed of European Chefs that is crossing the Atlantic in search of challenging new environments and ingredients indigenous to the West Coast. His credentials are impressive, and we look forward to tasting his handiwork as well. The fact that he landed a job at Bacchus speaks well for his accomplishments. When you have a setting this outstanding, only the best chef will do.
From journal Treat Yourself to Vancouver