The Casse Cou stairs are a Quebec landmark and as you climb the stairs (or descend as the case may be) you will pass the Restaurant at the top and the Bistro at the half way point. Located on two separate floors of one of the old stone houses, Chez Rabelais offers both outdoor or indoor dining. We chose indoor at the Bistro. The menu is perhaps a bit more limited at the Bistro but the all you can eat Mussels for $17 was hard to pass up.
The interior has stone walls and looks exactly like what it is, a very old house. There are mirrors on the walls which make the room seem not quite so claustrophobic. It is small and a trip to the restroom can become quite an adventure. But those all you can eat mussels are too tempting to pass up.
The really fabulous part is that those delightful mussels can be had in an almost limitless variety of ways. Who would have expected Normandine done with cream, calvados and apples, this was an exquisite pairing or Dijonaise with dijon, wine and cream. And for all of you mussel lovers out there, there was not a grain of sand in any of the mussels we ate.
If Normandine sounds too exotic you can try the garlic, onions and cream, or just the garlic and onion, or the provincial which added tomatoes. For those who can’t make up your mind you can choose to have each bowl different. The bowls come with a large plate of very good French Fries served with mayonnaise for dipping. If you haven’t tried them this way you will be amazed at how good they go together.
Al of course being a carnivore had a steak which was served with French fries as well and Jason had a Mesculen and goat cheese salad. Jen and I had the mussels.
Al and I began our meal with an appetizer of calamari and this came as close to being what we joking call coated elastic bands as I ever want to come. They were terrible and I was very disappointed and apprehensive about the rest of our meal. Luckily the entrée was so delicious that I have completely forgiven them for their misstep in the calamari department and I would gladly come back for more mussels.
They were also offering a lobster special, either broiled or boiled with potatoes and vegetables and the table next to us had one each way. They seemed to be quite happy with their choice.
I would like to try this restaurant again and next time eat out on the terrace overlooking the stairs. The view down the full length of Rue Petit Champlain would be worth dealing with the crowds on the stairs.
Update: July 2004: We ate outdoors and had the mussels again, a little more expensive with the weakened US dollar but just as delicious.