Shave ice is the quintessential Hawaiian treat. In true island style, its exact origins are unknown, though it’s fairly clear that the sizeable Nikkei population brought with them the tradition of kakigori (delicately flavored Japanese shaved ice), and that Filipino halo-halo (a parfait containing crushed iced, tropical fruits, sweetened beans, and ice cream) also played a part in its development. The good old-fashioned American Sno-Cone is the closest relation to shave ice on the mainland.

However, shave ice is infinitely more subtle and pleasing than a Sno-Cone. A good shave ice is fluffy, like the finest snow; there is nothing granular or crunchy about it whatsoever. And then there are all the freshly-prepared, brightly-hued rainbow syrups in flavors that go way beyond the traditional mainland sweeteners: guava, mango, lilikoi (passion fruit), pineapple, lychee, coconut, tamarind, banana, apricot, papaya, li hing mui (an island favorite, though something of an acquired taste), plus, of course, cherry, strawberry, lemon, lime, and almost infinite variations on the theme of fruit.

Shave ice (never called, note, shaved ice) is also Hawaii’s hippest treat, as well. A certain cachet is attached to knowing exactly where to find the best shave ice on each island. On Kaua’i, the on dit has it that the best shave ice is at Jo-Jo’s, in Waimea. Alas, I’ve never been to Jo-Jo’s, as we’ve never stayed on the south side of the island. Luckily, Wishing Well in Hanalei is regarded as a close runner-up in the shave ice pageant. And I’ve had their shave ice as many times as I could manage--usually whenever I’m passing through Hanalei and Wishing Well is open (generally, that’s from noon to five, though not always).

Part of the charm of the Wishing Well experience is the stand itself--it's housed in a funky, paneled truck with an awning and colorful hand-lettered signs. It’s always parked on a grassy area with picnic tables next to Kayak Kaua’i in Hanalei. Amble up to the truck and pause for. . . well, awhile. It’s going to take that long to decide what flavor shave ice to order, and whether to just have shave ice or shave ice with ice cream, sweetened adzuki beans (yeah, sounds weird, but this, I take it, goes back to halo-halo), sweetened condensed milk (ditto), or whatevahs.

I can recommend two house specialties: the Hanalei Sunrise and the Hanalei Sunset--featuring rainbow arrays of tropical syrups such as guava, lilikoi, and pineapple. Macadamia nut ice cream on the bottom is highly recommended. (I’m not too sure about the adzuki beans. . . maybe someday I’ll try them.) Once a selection is made, it takes a few minutes for the older couple that runs the stand to prepare it, using a special machine fitted with a blade that shaves ice from a block just so. They’ll hand you a styrofoam dish heaped with the luscious treat. Then dig in, ‘cause it melts fast!

Brok’da mouf! (Delicious!)