Chef Jean-Louis Montecot’s menu for the 2004-2005 ski season makes The Goldner Hirsch the top choice in Park City.
The seafood tower ($32) is a pile of tomato slice, grilled halibut, shrimp, portabella mushroom, salmon, and red potatoes that almost looks too good to eat. The halibut--slightly overcooked--was spectacularly broiled under a high flame, which gave it a crisp crust on top. The salmon was cooked to perfection--flaky to the touch, but still moist--and all was as fresh as seafood can be when 800 miles from the nearest ocean. The mushroom and balsamic demi-glaze perfectly accented the fish.
Should lamb shank braised in molasses be the daily special ($34), don’t pass it up. The fork-tender lamb falls off the bone at a touch, and the lamb, sauce, and bitter greens blend into a fine combination. Spaetzle compliments the dish well. This dish hits the spot on a cold winter evening and was clearly superior to the $46 rack of lamb at the nearby Café Mariposa.
Weinerschnitzel, sauerkraut, and Spaetzle are other excellent dishes. This plate has gone through three to four variations since Jean-Louis took over the kitchen, and excellent as the current version is, I preferred version number one, where the veal, slightly creamy sauerkraut, and baked apple with cheese complimented each other to perfection.
The apple strudel was all you could ask for. Heimbeer Kuchen is a super-rich, semisweet chocolate fudge cake topped with fresh raspberries, whipped cream, and a raspberry sauce and will satisfy your sweet tooth for a week.
Wines cost from $32 to $110 and are also available by the glass.
Last but not least, the decor and ambiance of the restaurant are superb. You feel good just sitting here.
The Goldner Hirsch is located at Deer Valley’s mid-mountain base and is on Park City’s free bus route. By car, take Royal Street or Marsac Avenue/Empire Canyon Road from the Deer Valley traffic circle. When parking under the hotel, enter from the rear, or park in the lot next to the hotel.
For lunch and après ski snacks, the restaurant is just off Mt. Cervin Plaza, behind the Silver Lake Lodge and half a block from the lifts. Leave your skis at the free ski check.
Dinner #2
Although the elk chop convinced me I don’t much like elk, this was the elk’s fault, not the restaurant’s, for the dish was superb. The chop was perfectly cooked to the medium-rare stage that is best for game, and the sauce was an excellent compliment to the meat. The side dishes, wild mushroom and onion pie and a small baked potato topped with mashed potatoes, were superb.
Veal Marsala, a daily specialty, was the best version of this classic either of us has ever encountered.