Description: On the occasions we fly back to the UK from Ljubljana, our last port of call in the Slovenian capital is Pizzeria Sole. This informal restaurant is situated just over the road from the train and bus stations and is just ten minutes walk from Presernov trg and the centre of the city. The location is perfect, after a filling lunch we don't have far to go to catch the bus to the airport, and we've even been known to drop in during the scheduled break on the coast to Maribor bus.
This may be a pizzeria in name but I've never ordered a pizza and I don't recall ever having seen anyone else do that. It's also described as a 'slascicarna' which is a place that specialises in ice creams and gooey cream cakes. For a couple of years I used to call it the 'Balkan Grill' because most people go there to eat the meat specialities of southern Yugoslavia - cevapcici (spicy little sausages made from minced veal and pork) and pljeskavica (a patty made from the same minced meat). They also do kebabs which you can see in the glass fronted chiller by the entrance; they look so colourful, generous pieces of meat skewered between brightly coloured peppers and chunks of onion.
On Sunday mornings, the time we are most likely to visit, the city's male Kosovan-Albanian population congregate around the statue in front of the restaurant and many of them visit Sole for a coffee and a piece of cream cake. I love to come to the restaurant at this time; it takes me back to cities like Istanbul, Pristina and Sarajevo. It's funny to see young men in their leather jackets, sipping tiny coffees and making a little piece of sugary cake last as long as possible. I can't imagine men that age from the UK eating cream cakes on a Sunday morning. The atmosphere is always lively in that southern European way that makes a perfectly normal discussion sound like a fight could break out at any moment.
We are creatures of habit and always have the cevapcici. They’re made by hand here, not bought-in, mass produced things that are joined together. They’re spicy but not too spicy and they are always cooked to perfection, juicy and tender. They’re served with a large lepinja, a flat bread bun which is best described as an ‘airy ciabatta’, some inside the bun, the rest just poking out – it always looks very tempting. On the side you get the traditional accompaniments of raw chopped onions and a heap of ajvar, a spicy relish made from red peppers and aubergines. A garnish of fiery chilli powder and paprika is best avoided if you can’t tolerate really hot spices.
If you fancy something different there are chicken dishes or various pizzas. Salads can be ordered as mains or sides. Try the spicy peppers, they are delicious!
The cream cakes seem very popular. Alas, an allergy to nuts means I can’t have them myself but they must be good as we’ve seen old ladies come in, order a cake, eat it and leave. No sitting around, they know what they’ve come for and once they’ve enjoyed it they’re off.
Although this place is very popular with young Muslim men who tend not to drink alcohol, you can get a beer with your meal though they do have a full range of soft drinks (though they do tend to sell everything in small bottles) and the coffee is very good.
Seating here is over two floors but there’s also a very pleasant decked outdoor area; a trellis screen blocks the traffic noise from the busy road nearby. In summer you may find that tiny tame little birds appear on the corner of your table looking for crumbs. They’re rather sweet than a nuisance.
Service is fast and friendly enough but the staff are reluctant to speak English (assuming they do at all). You should be able to manage with just a little Slovenian.
One word of warning, the toilets are on the ground floor and only accessible via a narrow spiral staircase so access may prove impossible for people with mobility problems.
There's a McDonald's right next to the train station and a load of fast food places opposite the bus station but if you walk that tiny bit further to Pizzeria Sole you'll get something much tastier and in a more pleasant and comfortable environment.
Expect to pay about €12 for two mains and two soft drinks.
Pizzeria Sole is open daily between 6.00 am and 1.00am
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