Eselalm

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Off R19 Cyclepath, Bad Mitterndorf, Austria

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Eselalm, Bad Mitterndorf Photo - Eselalm, Bad Mitterndorf, Austria

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A Cosy Austrian Retreat

by fizzytom

Newcastle upon Tyne, England, United Kingdom

November 5, 2011

Best of IgoUgo Eselalm is what’s known in Austria as a ‘hütte’. It doesn’t seem right to describe a hütte as a hut but that’s really what it is: a countryside inn serving food and refreshments in a very simple building. We chanced upon Eselalm when walking back ...Read more Eselalm is what’s known in Austria as a ‘hütte’. It doesn’t seem right to describe a hütte as a hut but that’s really what it is: a countryside inn serving food and refreshments in a very simple building. We chanced upon Eselalm when walking back from the little village of Obersdorf to Bad Mitterndorf where we were staying. This region is the southern part of the Salzkammergut, about halfway between Salzburg and Graz, and a couple of miles from the very pretty town of Bad Aussee.

There are several of these ‘hütte’ in the area and they are advertised on a notice board in the centre of Bad Mitterndorf along with the opening times and information about the entertainment that some of them provide. We hadn’t imagined that we’d get to one as we hadn’t come by car and we had the impression that they are remote so it we were delighted to come across Eselalm purely by chance. This one is on the R19 cycle path which is, in winter, also one of the cross country skiing trails.

‘Hütte’ tend to be quite similar but what makes Eselalm different is that it has a small petting zoo with several kinds of domestic animals in its grounds. On the wet September day when we visited, only a couple of hardy donkeys were out in the meadow beside the pond. Although the restaurant is open all year round the zoo is not so you should check the website if that is your main reason for visiting.

Eselalm is a rustic timber building, more than a hut, but not quite as posh as a chalet. This Hütte was built for use by woodcutters in 1896 and could accommodate thirty people; it can now hold one hundred as a restaurant. The night before our visit the first snows had fallen a couple of hundred metres above us and in spite of the fact it was still September a fine wet mist hung in the air. Through the windows with their cutesy gingham curtains we could see how cosy and inviting the place looked and we changed our lunch plans on the spot. In places like this its customary to say hello when you enter and everyone already there will say hello back. The same applies when people say goodbye as they leave.

A large wood burner stands in the middle of what is essentially one large room (there’s a small kitchen off the main room) and radiates heat into every corner. It was very welcome on this damp, drizzly day. Sawn logs are piled beside the burner and anyone can open the door and throw in another log as required. The walls are decorated with old photographs and antique farming equipment while patterns cushions add some comfort to the benches around the wooden tables. There are hooks on the wall where you can hang up your wet coat.

The menu at Eselalm is quite limited but it should be possible to get something. I was surprised to see they do pizzas and when a couple were delivered to a trio of young men at another table, I thought the pizzas looked quite tasty. A lot of people were ordered a piece of roasted meat which was served on a wooden board with a sharp knife so you could carve off slices for yourself. Others were having bread with what looked like cheese and pate. We decided to have soup, a potato soup for me and a clear beef soup with noodles for my partner. These were served with lovely half-rye bread which was warm and fluffy. Both soups were tasty and served up in a decent sized bowl. It was just enough for a quick lunch.

Seeing that the ‘most’ was available I had to try a glass even though the surroundings and the weather seemed more conducive to a glass of mulled wine. Most if the first pressing of the grapes and people get excited about it in this part of the world. There were two kinds available and I wasn’t really sure about the difference but I chose one and found it to be very drinkable and much less sweet than the most I drink at this time of year in Slovenia.

Due to the limited amount of time we had in Bad Mitterndorf weren't able to return on an evening when there was entertainment but would certainly have done so had we been staying longer. The entertainment tends to be regional folk music from what I can understand from the advertising.

Eselalm makes a great lunch stop on a country walk or when cycling and would be a great place to come with children. As well as the animals there is a play area and a pedal karting ring. In summer there are tables outside so you can enjoy the fantastic views.

The prices are very reasonable and we spent about €10 for lunch which is cheap for Austria. Service was friendly and quick and although we were only having a soup, there was no pressure to order more or to move on when we'd finished.

I'd love to see this place in winter. It is quite typically Austrian and the sort of place you think of when thinking of the Austrian countryside. If only the snow had come down just another two hundred metres - I'd have been very happy indeed!

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A Cosy Austrian Retreat