On weekends, arrive before noon for the best seating, or you might find yourself tucked in one of the backrooms where dim sum carts frequent less. The service is courteous and efficient. As with all dim sum establishments, the first order of business is what type of tea you would like. Jasmine tea is a good bet, fragrant and steaming hot. There’s also bo lei (also known as pu-erh), a full-bodied, fully fermented tea good for the digestion, and oolong (tea is $1/person).

Within a few seconds of seating, stainless steel carts bearing dim sum appear. Dim sum means "touches the heart" and describes the small steamed, baked, and fried dishes eaten with tea for lunch or breakfast. If you’re new to dim sum, Canton Delights is a good place to begin. Unlike other dim sum establishments that serve trendier variations on the basics, Canton Delights sticks with the traditional and does them quite well. For example, dumplings, either fried or steamed, are outstanding. The steamed shrimp dumplings (hau gau) have paper-thin wrappings and an interior of the freshest shrimp. Steamed scallop dumplings feature large bits of scallops intertwined with pea shoot greens. Steamed veggie dumplings look like miniature satchels and are filled with the tiniest cubes of tofu along with shreds of shitake and wood ear mushroom.

Fried taro dumplings (wu kok) are complex fellows with their trio of textures and flavors. The dcumplings have an outer coating made from potato flour that gives the dumpling an unusually lacy and delicate crispness. The dumpling itself is made from taro, a purple root vegetable, that has been mashed to the creaminess of mashed potatoes. Nestled inside the taro is a filling of minced pork, scallions, and mushrooms, which add a third texture as well as a savory richness to this dish. The taro dumplings here are light and not too greasy.

A classic dim sum dish, baked egg tarts, has tarts the size of half dollars and come four to a plate. The pastry is light and crumbly while the custard filling is dense. The Portugese egg tart is slightly bigger than the baked egg tart and has a cookie-like crust with a filling of egg whites and cream. Both are good.

One disappointment was the rice noodle with salty donut. The salty donut is a long piece of dough that has been deep fried, like a Mexican churro on steroids but without the cinnamon. The dough is wrapped with a thin sheet of rice noodle and served with a sweet, vinegar soy sauce. While the rice noodle was tender and pliable, the salty donuts fell flat, literally. Instead, try the rice noodle with shrimp; the shrimp are plump and accented with chives.