Once upon a time in the 50's, an intriguing Hungarian-born model and dinner-party hostess named Marion Nagy made this space a magnet for downtown literati, bohemian artists and other people cooler than me. Closed in 1973, Marion's son acquired the space in 1990, taking care to recapture the kitschy chic of his mother's restaurant.

An atmospheric, stylish alternative to the trendy fly-by-nights that have invaded the East Village in recent years, Marion's is perfect for an intimate dinner or a night of fun. I recently had a quiet evening of drinks and appetizers (the fried goat cheese is delicious!) on a chill Sunday and found it perfect for mellow conversation. The service was exceptionally good and the vibe friendly and relaxing.

I liked the place so much I returned on a Monday night and found another side of Marion's--a packed house gathered to dine and be entertained by the inimitable Pontani Sisters. Taking their inspiration from Carmen Miranda, these banana-clad dancers kicked and froliced through the aisles every half-hour or so to the strains of exotic lounge music. Imagine a 50's-Style Kitsch Kabuki.

We started with tasty eggplant canolis topped with shredded cheese on a bed of greens. I ordered the flavorful crab-stuffed chilean sea bass, which comes with a nice helping of delicately whipped garlic mashed potatoes. My friend had a nicely turned-out classic steak au poivre. For dessert, we couldn't resist the Gateau du Mort--choclate cake a la mode with strawberry sauce--said to be Eartha Kitt's favorite. Purrrrfect. Once again our service was top-notch and we had an exceptionally large time.

If you go on Monday, try to score the table in the rear gallery for a great view of the dancing. Cover: $3. There's also a DJ on Tuesday nights.