It's tough to talk about KangSuh without comparing it to KumGangSan across the street. KumGangSan is clearly the flagship Korean barbecue house in Manhattan, but KangSuh easily holds its own with such a prestigious place right across the street. The prices are comparable, the food is at least as good, the service is about the same, and the tables are better.

There's often a line at dinnertime, but it's worth the wait. I've only ever been here for the barbecues as the other dishes are about as good as other places on the block but the line is longer here. Once you get a table and start browsing through the menu, the waitress will stop by to take your order. Your best bet is to stick to what's on the menu unless you can speak Korean. Within a few minutes, your table will be near-invisible under a covering of panjan (side dishes) and you'll have a nice fire going in the middle of your table (if you order a barbecue, and I recommend that you do). There is, of course, an assortment of kimchis (what's the plural of "kimchi," anyway?) but you'll often see at least one or two interesting things. Perhaps you'll find yourself staring down a couple of octopus tentacles with spicy sauce.

Then the meat comes and it's time for the real eatin' to begin! Grill your meat and dig in, Korean barbecue-style! Have a beer (stick to the American beers) or some soju (if you're feeling muscular). There's no reason to leave KangSuh hungry, as the portions are decently sized. If you had soju with dinner, you may find yourself thinking that a NoRaeBang (karaoke room) all of a sudden seems like a stroke of sheer genius and you and your friends will assault each other's ears with your off-key caterwauling. This is how many evenings in Korea end.

KangSuh is a great place for a barbecue, for sure. If you have your heart set on KumGangSan but the line's too long, consider checking this place out. At $25 a portion, it's not the place to go for mere eating, but it's great if you want to really appreciate some good food.

The tables seat up to six if you squeeze so it's a good place for small gatherings. It's also a great date location as it has everything. Good food, oftentimes something exotic in a side dish, an exciting and bustling atmosphere, and it's difficult to go wrong with an open flame adding some drama to the evening. There are also some decent liquors to try out.

This is another one of those places that is very popular among people "in the know." One hint I have is to try the "special kalbi", as it's usually $1 more than the other kabli but is marinated in a tasty sauce with a hint of sweetness.

This is one of my favorite Korean restaurants in the city. I’ve been coming here for years, when it was a plain space staffed with unfriendly women who never smiled. But the food was always so excellent that the service never bothered me. Through the years, it has added a sushi bar downstairs, and most recently, redecorated and made its image more upscale. Prices have gone up but the service and food have gotten even better.

Dress in machine-washable clothes if you chose to dine here. The smell of charcoal and spices hit you upon entry, and will linger in your clothes and hair after dinner. This is a small sacrifice for the excellent food. I go straight for the barbeque and may add a few regular dishes. My dinner this evening was typical, with an order of Kalbi (marinated boneless beef ribs), chicken, and shrimp. Seven small dishes immediately arrive at the table, along with lettuce, bean sauce, salad, garlic and chili, as well as rice, soy sauce and the plates of raw meat. Then hot coals in metal containers are carefully lifted and placed into the pit of the barbeque in the middle of the table. Coals are rarely used these days, as other restaurants use a gas flame. I find the coals add flavor to the meat.

Kalbi is delicious, tender, juicy and perfect when grilled to medium rare. The chicken is very tender and the shrimp extremely fresh and large. Use the tongs to cook food on the grill, but the staff usually insist on helping you. Dip the grilled Kalbi in soy sauce and vinegar mix, add some bean sauce, rice, kimchee, and wrap it all with lettuce. Sample some pickled turnip, marinated spinach, and the other side dishes. Broth is served and I like it with rice (probably not proper etiquette, oh well!) For a large group, try the seafood pancakes and the kalbi jim. This is beef short ribs stew, very flavorful in a slightly sweet dark sauce. Korean hotpot is also good, similar to the Chinese hotpot and the Japanese Shabu Shabu. The mixed glass noodles are excellent, as is the raw beef, which I call Korean beef tartar. No matter what you order, you will find plates of food to cover your table.

Korean beer is light and an excellent choice with the meal. The prices are now $18.99 to $19.99 for each order of barbeque meat. This includes the side dishes, condiments, rice and broth for everyone at the table. The relatively higher prices reflect the high quality of ingredients used. The service is better, not so rough around the edges. The renovations are an improvement. If only they could get more powerful vents so that our clothes don’t smell so much afterwards! (I think Woo Lae Oak in Soho is the only Korean restaurant in town with that ability.) Kang Suh is open 24 hours and has another branch in Yonkers.