How often do you find a modern and unassuming restaurant with an informal open kitchen where you can always get a table. The food is simple but refined American fare, the service friendly and slightly amateur, and the neighborhood one of the most beautiful blocks in the city. I first discovered Irving on Irving by accident. When faced with a long wait at Yama across the street, I noticed the mosaic and corner windows at a restaurant with no apparent signage. It was newly opened and I was intrigued to walk over to investigate.
The small menu displayed in the glass case made me hungry. It was late, I was tired, and the chocolate fondue for dessert was too tempting to pass over. So I walked in to find a dark small room lined with counters at the side and the open kitchen behind. My husband and I sat in a table in a corner niche by the window, very cosy and intimate. That night, I enjoyed a delicious seafood soup and my husband had the grilled flank steak. Both were excellent and simply prepared. Of course, we ended our meal with the chocolate fondue. It came in a cute ceramic fondue set, small enough to hold a bowl full of dark, flavorful chocoate. On the side was various fruit in bite-size pieces. It was a highlight and worth coming back for. At $9, it was worth the money in my books.
Unfortunately, our next visit was not until this fall. Again, the room was almost full when we arrived around 9pm. People arriving after the theatre, and a few young couples on dates filled the room. I noticed the menu had changed. This time, I decided on Cobb Salad. It came on a large white plate, with bits of thick bacon, wonderful Roquefort cheese, tender chicken, carrots, and French beans over a bed of lettuce. My husband had the Rib Eye with Balsamic Vinegar. It was ordered medium rare, and it arrived with just enough redness to retain its juices and flavor. The steak was accompanied by spinach and excellent mashed potatoes.
For dessert, we were disappointed that chocolate fondue was replaced with chocolate soufflé. Well, it sounded good so that’s what we ordered. The small soufflé was more like a very moist cake. Together with the custard sauce and the homemade vanilla ice cream, it rivaled the fondue.
It is amazing how good the food is from the relatively small and open kitchen. I believe the chef has credentials from having worked at top name restaurants. During lunch and breakfast, tables are put aside and the counter service offers sandwiches, soups and pastries. I like this place for its intimacy, low-key ambiance, and excellent food for reasonable prices. On a recent night, we paid $54 for two entrees, a glass of wine, and dessert. Afterwards, you have the added benefit to walk off your meal through the beautiful streets of Gramercy Park.