I just can’t jive with the hordes of fashionable, health-conscious New Yorkers who spend the holidays nibbling elegantly on dinners of tofurkey, potato purée drizzled with a light sauce au jus, and low-carb pumpkin tartines. When I hear the sound of sleigh bells jingling, I crave comfort food. Juicy, home-style, coronary-on-a-plate comfort food.

So three cheers for Biscuit, "a B-B-Q joint" (as the sign out front proudly declares) that brings the red-blooded fare of the red states to the chilly North. And let me tell you, once you’ve had a taste of Biscuit, you’re never going back to KFC. This is real soul food.

Step into Biscuit’s small, jam-packed dining room, have a seat at one of the oilcloth-covered tables, and brace yourself (and your arteries) for a truly magical experience: double-dipped fried chicken. That’s right. You heard me. Double-dipped. And before the chicken is breaded and fried, they cover it in herbs and spices for some extra flavor to go along with all the fat. Mmm… I’m starting to hyperventilate just thinking about it.

Of course, it doesn’t end there. The pulled chicken is just as good as the fried (well, OK, almost as good), and you can also get pulled pork, ribs, catfish, shrimp, or beef brisket. And all these main courses come with two sides—you can choose from the likes of braised greens, seasoned fries, red beans and rice, potato salad, mashed spuds, mac’n’cheese, or my personal favorite, cheddar grits. All these dishes are seasoned to perfection. After a lifetime of bland mac’n’cheese and mashed potatoes, the Biscuit versions were a real eye-opener for me. And yes, you can order these sides à la carte as well.

If all this sounds like too much, you can just get a sandwich. On the weekends, there’s also a selection of brunch offerings. Oh, and the biscuits? Well, let’s just say that Biscuit definitely lives up to its name. Whatever you choose, do your best to save room for dessert —- there are several classic choices; my personal fave is the unbelievably rich peanut-butter pie. And it’s all made from scratch—not just the desserts, but everything on the menu. (I mean, they don’t raise the pigs and chickens themselves—as far as I know, at least—but you get the idea.)

So when you get tired of Manhattan’s fancy bistros and brasseries, go on down to the heart of Brooklyn and get yourself some down-home holiday cheer. Just remember Biscuit’s immortal slogan: "Save a cow...eat a pig!"