Since Wiener schnitzel was high on our list of priorities, we immediately decided that Figlmüller it was. Accordingly, after our taxing hike through Hofburg, we took ourselves off towards Stephansplatz and the nearby Bäckerstrasse, where one of the two outlets of Figlmüller is located. The other outlet is less than two minutes’ walk from Bäckerstrasse; it’s at Wollzeile 5 (Tel: 512 6177), so if the Bäckerstrasse Figlmüller is full, you can head for the Wollzeile one, and vice versa. As you walk down Bäckerstrasse, you’ll pass a doorway painted in green and white, with a carved and painted caricature above it, pointing the way to the two restaurants.

The Bäckerstrasse outlet has large windows overlooking the street. Inside, the restaurant exudes a warmth that’s very comforting. There are polished wooden tables and chairs, unobtrusive waiters, and menus in both German as well as English. Since it was still fairly early, the restaurant was rather empty: only two other tables were occupied.

Tarun and I usually try not to order the same thing, so we can get to sample more stuff. Therefore, while I ordered the Wiener schnitzel, Tarun ordered the crumb-fried salt pork. Along with it, he asked for a beer, and I ordered grape juice. The menu suggested ordering a mixed green salad or a potato salad (for an additional €3.50 each), but I’d watched the people at the next table receive their order, and the portion of salad that was placed on their table was huge, and I realised (a bit ruefully, I must admit) that I couldn’t hope to fit in something that size. Neither could Tarun, so both of us skipped the salad and asked just for the meat.

As a tribute to the Wiener schnitzel, I’ll discuss it first. It was simply perfect. A 250 gm piece of veal, beaten so thin that it had spread out into a circle larger than the dinner plate it was served on. Breaded and deep-fried till it was stunningly golden and crisp on the outside, tender on the inside. And served along with a wedge of lemon.

Tarun’s meal was similar, except that it was salt pork rather than veal. The texture and the taste was different, of course, but not drastically so. This too was crisp fried, and absolutely delicious. It too came with a wedge of lemon.

By the time we finished, we were glad we hadn’t ordered salad. We skipped dessert as well, and got a final bill of €28.40, including a tip. A tad expensive, but worth it, considering that we’d had perhaps the best Wiener schnitzel on the planet.

We could not leave Vienna without sampling again a Wiener schnitzel and what better place to do so than at Figlmüller? Figlmüller is a pleasant, casual locale in the heart of the old town and reputedly serves the largest schnitzel in Vienna.

Figlmüller is located in a narrow alley between Wollzelle and Bäcker streets. Although we were reasonably late for lunch, it was crowded and it was obvious that we would not be able to get in there with the stroller. Fortunately, Figlmüller has a second, slightly more spacious locale just around the corner in Bäcker Street where we found an empty table right at the entrance.

The food on offer is mostly local cuisine, which in Vienna is not a bad thing. I was going to stay with the traditional Wiener schnitzel (€ 11.90) and mixed salad (€3.50) but opted for a local beer (€2) rather than the recommended 1/8 liter of wine mixed with soda water. It was the beginning of the asparagus season, which in the German-speaking world is quite an event, so my wife had to have a portion of asparagus salad (€ 6.90). For the children we ordered a Chicken Natur (€ 9.50), which is simply a fried chicken breast without any special coverings or sauces. For the carbohydrates – Germans generally find the Atkins diet a bit of a joke – we ordered a portion of rice (€2.10) and fried potatoes (€2.10), which in Austria is known as Erdäpfel rather than the ubiquitous Kartoffeln used in most of Germany. Add some mineral water and the bill came to €42.60.

Service was typical Austrian – fast and correct. Most welcoming, as it was a hot day, the drinks appeared within seconds. We hardly had time to take in the décor, which included loads of wine bottles, dark wood paneling, and other paraphernalia one would expect in a Viennese wine locale.

When the food arrived, my first thoughts were "I did not order a pizza base!" Figlmüller serves the largest schnitzel in Vienna because their chefs have the ability to pound down a half-pound piece of meat into a wafer thin schnitzel larger than the serving plate. The meat literally hung over the sides of the plate. Larger plates might have been sensible but the tables are small and it probably is a better idea to have the meat hung over the plate rather than the plates over the side of the table. Not surprisingly, the meat was cooked to perfection and all the other dishes were excellent too.

Figlmüller is two blocks from the Stephansdom and a very pleasant locale with surprisingly low prices despite its well-deserved fame.