Although M on the Bund only opened in 1999, by 2001 it had established itself as a globally important restaurant. I guess it helped being a ‘sister’ restaurant of Hong Kong’s famed M at the Fringe but this would not be enough if it didn’t have that something special.
What it has is a great location on the top floor of a 1920s building overlooking The Bund and the Huangpu River, a classy and inspired chic-modern-retro décor that seems just right for the times, and an international-standard winelist.
I had heard various reports about the food and the prices. In my experience the food is average and the prices, high. I thought the service left something to be desired. Despite all that, I would return because it has that certain glamour and flair generally lacking in most restaurants today.
When ordering from the menu, it’s probably better to forget about the prices. Start with one of the appetizers such as the crepe Parmentier with caviar, then try the goose, the baked lamb or the roasted pigeon. The desserts are a highlight for me at M on the Bund. Everything I have tried has been good. M’s Pavlova is hard to beat. This Australian dessert of meringue topped with fresh cream, fresh fruit and passion-fruit sauce served with icecream is one of the best.
There is a terrace overlooking the river which can be nice for lunch but when the weather is cold or dark, try to get the elite table adjacent to the windows. You will find that you have a sense of being somewhere quite special.