Galatoire's is the real deal -- traditional New Orleans at its most elegant and delicious. We visited on a Friday, which is the day the city's attorneys and judges come to see and be seen at lunch. We parked ourselves at the tiny bar upstairs because the downstairs dining room was packed by 11:30am. As we waited for a table in the upstairs dining room, we were treated to a slice of real New Orleans power brokering, and an interesting and knowledgeable bartender who educated us on some local celebrities and customs.
We lingered in the bar until about 1pm, when things settled down a little, and then had a delicious lunch. My companion had a fried seafood dish, which he enjoyed thoroughly, and I had Chicken Clemenceau, a chicken breast lightly covered with cream sauce, onions, mushrooms, and peas. It was very nice, and the accompanying salad and bread were delicious.
The upstairs has several small dining rooms, and is lively, but not loud. The downstairs dining room is huge and noisy, lined with mirrors so that everyone can see everyone else. Tennessee Williams' favorite table is in the back and offers a complete panorama of the room and its diners. The decor is a blend of Edwardian and Southern, and the service is pure Southern -- hospitable, fast, and competent.
We felt like the only tourists there, but were treated very well. Galatoire's is a popular haunt of locals, and the wait staff obviously knows almost all of the customers. It was a warm, comfortable, and delicious experience, and we'll come back for dinner on our next trip.
Reservations are not accepted except for parties of eight or more and even Galatoire family members have to wait in line for a table. There is a dress code at night (coat and tie for men), but business casual will work during lunch.