The Cool River Cafe is both a fine-dining establishment and an upscale bar. Upon entry to the front lobby, you see a large and welcoming fireplace near the hostess station. A chandelier made from twisted antlers dimly lights the room. Books are stacked on the mantelpiece. Wing-back chairs invite you to sit for a moment while waiting for your table.
If you're having dinner, you'll follow the hostess to the left. A large and open dining room awaits you. Another fire is crackling to one side, but the wood accents and the snowy-white tablecloths give the room a luxurious feeling of warmth. A stone wall surrounds a giant painting of a cowboy smoking a cigar at the Alamo, reminding you that the Cool River Cafe is a steakhouse and Southwestern grill. The cowboy is sipping cognac. Big-band jazz plays in the background.
A waiter appears in a tuxedo shirt and bolo to offer you a wine list just as you sit down. What's available? Just about anything by the bottle, up to an $1,100 La Tache DRC '69 Burgundy, or a myriad of fine spirits to complement the meal. I opt for a glass of Katherine's Vineyard ($11/glass) as I listen to the features for the evening.
Looking at the menu, it's hard to settle on an appetizer. There are Texas blue crab cakes that are served with Absolut vodka cocktail sauce, calamari, Alaskan crab legs, and spinach-and-artichoke dip. The Republic Salad with field greens, bacon, and eggs looks appealing. The tender mussels we choose are a favorite of my husband's. The entrees are, of course, beef heavy, but I opt for the Pommeray Chicken, which is served over an absolutely delicious spinach Florentine and topped with wild mushrooms and a light but memorable Dijon mustard sauce. My husband eyed the lamb chops and filet mignon, but also chooses chicken. After dinner, we wish we had room for the Diablo Helado, a Bailey's Irish ice-cream dessert that sounds sinful, but we're full.
While we wait for the check, I take a moment to walk to the bar. It's a different world on the other side of the cafe. Huge television screens are tuned to sports events. A stuffed cheetah runs along one wall. There are rows of pool tables. I notice the "library," an enclosed room where men are smoking cigars, playing chess, sitting in overstuffed chairs. This is a popular spot for professionals to unwind at the end of the day. My husband, who works in the area, explains this is also a popular place to meet women. "Not that I'd know!" he adds quickly. I smile. I have seen the mouthwash nicely presented in a tall flask with small cups to the side for patrons to use in the ladies' room.
Bottom line? This is an upscale eatery worth its weight. The food's excellent. The service is better. And if you just want to wind down--or entertain a client or friends--the bar's a good option.