It's easy to miss The Mercury Grill, sitting there in its nondescript strip mall in northern Dallas, wedged between a Starbucks and a Tuesday Morning discount store. But don’t be fooled by its austere location – this is a five-star dining experience. It opened to insanely good reviews about 7 years ago – it was named Restaurant of the Year in 1998 – but, luckily, the quality has not suffered as the spotlight has waned.
Ward’s cooking is New American and informed through his childhood in the American South, particularly some of his mom’s recipes – be sure to try "My Mother's Wedge of Romaine." For appetizers, the crisped fois gras is one of Ward’s specialties. You won’t go wrong with any of his entrées, but I would recommend the pork tenderloin with mushroom ragout (if it’s currently on the menu; he rotates often) or the pepper-crusted tuna mignon.
I’ve always been impressed by the level of service at this restaurant. Somehow, the waiters have a sixth sense about them – they know just when to come by and check on you and just when to leave you alone to enjoy your meal and company.
I can’t say enough about The Mercury Grill – hands down, it’s one of the best places to enjoy a meal that I’ve ever experienced.
April 20, 2005
From journal Big D