I’ve had Gardenburgers, Bocaburgers, lentil burgers, even some concoction called the "love burger" served up by my college dorm’s cafeteria. Most have left me pining for a good ol’ bacon double cheeseburger from Kidd Valley. Not the veggie burgers at
Red Mill, however.
The first time I ever tasted a Red Onion Veggie Burger, with a "heap o’ caramelized red onions" and special Mill Sauce* on a kaiser roll ($4.75), I scarfed down the entire thing and walked away wanting more. Usually when I indulge a particular craving, I gorge until satiated and manage to go days, if not weeks, before hankering after that particular food again. Not at Red Mill. The Red Onion Veggie Burger is the kind of thing I can eat for lunch, crave again come dinnertime, and dream about that night. I wake up jonesing for this burger before I’ve even had my morning coffee. The thin, flat pattie coupled with a not-too-bready bun and to-die-for sauce somehow manages to achieve a perfect balance of flavors in every bite. Add a side of the best onion rings in Seattle and wash it all down with a fresh-squeezed lemonade (plain or sparkling), boysenberry shake, or creamsicle malt, and you’ve got the perfect meal.
Other vegetarian options include the Verde Burger, with fire-roasted Anaheim peppers, Jack cheese, and Mill Sauce on a kaiser roll, and the grilled cheese sandwich made with local Tillamook cheddar.
Carnivores can choose from a variety of flame-broiled, quarter-pound beef burgers, such as the Blue Cheese ‘n’ Bacon Burger or the BBQ Burger. Lemon-honey-marinated chicken sandwiches come prepared several ways, among them the Chicken Club Burger with pepper bacon, Swiss cheese, and basil mayo.
Although Red Mill is only 10 years old, it definitely has that old-time feel thanks to all the retro touches: Formica tables, wood booths, red-vinyl counter stools, checkerboard floors, and vintage signs (plus a random landscape painting of a windmill). The proprietor, decked out in a faded Rolling Stones T-shirt and shades, cranks up the rock-and-roll while a youthful staff runs around red-faced in the kitchen. I’ve seen all sorts flock here: biker dudes in full leather; a white-trash family complete with surly teenaged son and little blond girl with a rocker 'do; and white-haired grandparents out with identical-twin Asian tots in pigtails and pink overalls.
Tips: Turn off your cellphone before you get yelled at. If you don’t specify veggie or chicken, you may end up with beef. Call ahead if you’re in a rush. And, in good weather, grab a spot at the picnic tables or head to nearby Woodland Park or Green Lake.
In addition to the Phinney Ridge location, there’s a Red Mill in Interbay at 1613 W. Dravus St. (206/284-6363).
*Official definition: "Our Mill Sauce is a housemade mayo with a light, smoky flavor. It is not a Thousand Island-style sauce and has no additives or flavorings."