Not many restaurants can compete with
i’o and its sister/neighbor, Pacific’O, when it comes to ambiance and setting. Even in an island brimming with dining spots touting picture postcard views, this one on the Lahaina shores really grabs all five coconuts. You wouldn’t expect it as you enter the rather non-descript and out of the way
500 Front Street open air mall, but just keeping walking down the planked walkway past the Elizabeth Doyle Gallery and you’ll soon see what I mean.
The absolutely dreamy vistas of the sun setting beyond distant Lanai escorted by sailboats and canoe paddlers would be enough eye candy for diners, but i’o also serves up an award winning, dazzling interior design as well. Etched glass aquariums, hip lighting, a bar just begging for an enchantress to take a seat and challenge its sensuous curves, and a "must peak" exhibition kitchen all compete with the views from the plantation shutters. To catch it all, choose a perfect window table rather than the more typical al fresco tables on the front lanai that also serve as the entrance to the Feast at Lele. (The food presented at "The Feast" is prepared in I‘o’s kitchen. After dinner take a walk next door and catch the Lele performers between sets gossiping and flirting near the kitchen).
Settle yourself in for the sunset show and note that Martinis, not mai tais, are heavy on the menu here. Too bad I don’t drink the potent devils, because the Dreamsicle and Lemon Drop versions sounded mighty tasty served with ocean breezes wrapped around them. Regardless, the Chenin Blanc, VOUVRAY, Marc Bredif, France, 1999, offered by the glass, proved to be the perfect accompaniment to the recommended entree, the fois gras topped ono served on "wilted Hana vegetable salad, tropical fruit coulis and balsamic reduction" ($28.00).
Be sure to take advantage of some of the best appetizers on the island. This visit I was disappointed to find the seafood cocktail, served in a martini glass, had been taken from the menu, but happy that the "silken purse" (deliciously steamed stuffed wontons) and Kalua Tostados, (a decidedly Hawaiian version of the Mexican favorite), were still being offered. The Arugula Salad was as good as ever with its combination of oranges, feta cheese, candied walnuts and Maui onions ($8.00). Another delectable option is the Crispy Ahi, which is fresh sashimi tuna rolled in nori and panko crust and green papaya salad, ($27.00), which the restaurant claims inspired a cult following.
Views are one thing but i’o goes it one better on many counts. Chef James McDonald, has won a slew of awards since opening his trio of restaurants including Maui’s "Best Chef." The photogenic McDonald, a graduate of Maui’s Community College’s own culinary arts program, seems determined to provide Maui diners with outstanding alternatives to typical island selections. There’s no doubt he has the perfect setting in which to do so.