Traveling, for me, has always involved the anxious suspicion that I’ve left something behind. My heart, I cringingly admit, I’ve left after every visit to House of Nanking. Located in San Francisco’s Chinatown on the edge of its North Beach district, Nanking is a yummy hole-in-the-wall with surly service and mouth-watering fare.
Let’s walk through a typical Nanking experience.
It’s dinnertime. We arrive to find a long line of hungry hungry hipsters lining the sidewalk, waiting to eat. We join the end of the line and instantly become friends with our fellow diners; we all share laughs brought on by the indecipherable things people -- local winos and wait staff alike -- shout at us as we stand there, tummies rumbling. When our table is ready, we crawl into our seats. The table is pulled back into place. At our elbows, a couple sits eating, their table flush against ours. “What’s that?” we affably ask them, pointing at their dinner. They reply, coldly, violated. So they’re an antisocial bunch. We order our food (“What do you recommend?” I ask. The waiter nods, grabs our menus and whisks himself away). We are in their hands now. As our neighbors eat, they splatter onto our faces; that’s how close we are sitting. They listen to our museum plans for the following day; we listen to their cold bitter dispute over carpet samples. Our food arrives expeditiously on tin platters and we moan with delight. The bill immediately follows, as well as the impatient glares of the wait staff, itching for us to be gone already. The food is so good, we don’t even mind their rudeness. After we finish and eventually succumb to the pressure of their evil eyes, we push our table out and crawl over the laps of our new friends. “Good luck with that living room renovation,” I offer. Our table is refilled before we’re out the door. The line outside has grown. In all, the meal took about 20 minutes, leaving us with plenty of time to catch an early show.
My favorite dishes: fried potstickers with peanut sauce (spicy), beer-sauce chicken, and anything “Nanking”-style.