It's pricey, it's a chain. Big drawbacks in my book.

But - the saving graces are a hat trick. Legal Seafood is a winner. When you need to be assured of a nice meal - you can't go wrong with Legal.

Strong recommend - Crab Cakes and anything without lobster.

Not recommended - essentially the lobster, but ONLY because there are host of other Boston restaurants where you can enjoy lobster for about half the price.

If you find time for Legal - check out the chef's specials, and trust the creativity of the menu. It's safe here to move away from plain and into something interesting.

There is never a lack of fine dining in Boston. On New Year's Eve, advance reservations are recommended. Some other choices:

Italian fare is in abundance in Boston's North End. Try Mother Anna's at 211 Hanover St. for entrees such as Chicken, ziti, and broccoli ($13.95); Veal Roberto ($15.95); Pollo Venezia ($13.95), with mushrooms, artichokes and white wine lemon sauce. Sample a fine Italian wine with your meal and for dessert, a canoli or tiramisu. Anna's has candlelight and a romantic ambiance. Call ahead: (617) 523-8496.

Stephanie's on Newbury, at 190, is located in the midst of First Night fun. Call ahead for a dinner reservations (617) 236-0900 between 6:00 and 11:00 p.m., with live jazz on New Year's Eve and a wide-ranging menu at reasonable prices ($11-$30). Entrees include Long Island Duckling; Glazed Rack of Lamb; Slow Roasted Veal Osso Bucco; Brioche, Shallot Topped Salmon, and more. This is "casual elegance at its best," as well as a prime people watching location and place to Be Seen.

Biba, at 272 Boylston St., another Boston hot spot in which to Be Seen, will undoubtedly be packed on First Night. But you might find some standing space in the cocktail lounge. Try the cuisine on a week night after the holidays. (617) 426-7878.