Rain has since opened an East Side sibling and Lemongrass seems to have taken over the universe, but River hasn't changed, though their fickle, trend-seeking clientele has left for greener pastures (I'm sorry, my extended marine metaphor has taken a leave of absence and won't be coming back!). Walking in, you are still transported into a faraway land of fresh bamboo and exotic greenery. The same fiery chilies and fresh herbs still grace unusual vegetables simmered in coconut milk and sesame oil. But now, you'll likely have the bar to yourself on a weeknight (even a Thursday!) – the perfect place for a few light, unusual appetizers and a drink or two.

A few suggestions for a light dinner (or to whet a heartier palate):

Cha Gio Chay
These vegetarian spring rolls share a name with the typical Chinese Takeout fare, but the similarity ends there. River's spring rolls are light and crispy, filled with fresh, finely chopped vegetables, herbs, and cellophane noodles that nearly melt on the palate. Dip them into the bowl of Nuoc Nam sauce and wait for the explosion of salty-sweet flavor.

Steamed Vegetable Dumplings
Again, don't confuse these dumplings with their "one from Column A, one from Column B" counterparts. These are steamed to perfection and stuffed with a delicious mirepoix-like assortment of meaty mushrooms and greens. Even the soy sauce dip is a cut above, enhanced with garlic and basil.

Saigon Vegetable Pancakes
Six little pancake rolls the size and shape of fish sticks nestle together in a bed of colorful garnishes. Each one is filled with a mouth-watering assortment of oriental veggies, bean sprouts, and scallions in a coconut-curry sauce. Dip your rolls into the tamarind-garlic sauce provided – it's a veritable bridge over the Bay of Bengal between India and Asia.

Goi Cuon Chay
Looking at River's menu, I deduced that 'chay' must be Vietnamese for 'roll', but the Goi Cuon (Garden) Chay could not have been more different than the Cha Gio (Spring) Chay. Served cold, the Goi Cuon Chay is a refreshing, light counternote to the rich indulgence that is the Cha Gio Chay. Cool, powdery rice paper is wrapped around a bouquet of lightly seasoned but flavorful veggies, mint leaves, and mushrooms. The texture of the shrooms was so meaty and the taste so intense that we initially mistook it for pork, and almost sent them back! These come with a peanut plum dipping sauce that was so good, I was tempted to dip my fingers in it after the rolls were gone.