New York, New York
June 28, 2001
On my first meal there, I was greeted by a young man with a strong Australian accent, who later told me he was one of the owners. I also learned that the chef used to work at Patroon and the owner loaded him up with compliments. The place occupies a long narrow space, decorated in eclectic taste, somewhat wild and colorful but in good taste. There is also a downstairs bar area.
I had read beforehand about the kangaroo and emu meat that was served here. Supposedly with less fat and more flavor, I was eager to get a tasting myself. I tried the emu carpaccio and my companion the seared kangaroo salad. Both were excellent. The carpaccio was so tender and flavorful, very similar to beef but with more depth. The kangaroo meat was grilled and then sliced thin and left raw on the inside. I highly recommend both and they are well worth the prices.
As for the entree, I tried the grilled duck breast in an asian-inspired broth. The duck was made to perfection, and was atop a mound of sliced mushrooms and wood's ear, an asian seaweed. On another occasion, I tried the bisque made not with lobster but with a kind of Australian crawfish. This is also highly recommended.
By the time dessert rolled around, I was completely full. However, how could I resist the pavlova, classic Australian fare. Legend has it that a chef created the pavlova after watching famed ballerina Anna Pavlova dance. It is a dessert made of meringue with a fruit sauce (like berries or kiwi) and cream on top.
Towards the end of dinner, the owner came by and poured us a helping of Australian ice wine. Served cold, it was deliciously sweet and light at the same time. Did I fail to mention that they also have an extensive wine list? Leave it to the staff to explain the list to you and let them choose to match what you are ordering.
Credit cards are accepted and I would recommend making reservations. The space is quite small and does not seat many people.
From journal Eating Well in New York City