Dinner at Alain Ducasse is like stepping into a the world of the old and wealthy. Its location is not well advertised. It is in the Essex Hotel, but you have to go past the lobby and down a hall. The feeling of entering an exclusive club is maintained by its look, which is very "old boys club" with the leather seating, velvet draperies, and textured wall paper. It has a mostly French staff, and mostly older very well dressed people are dining. Service was so prompt, it felt like we were never alone for the first 10 minutes. I was given a small upholstered stool to place my purse on. Is that posh or what?

Even before ordering, the champagne cart arrived—only champagne, no non-French sparking wine. Of course, we had to have a glass. This was followed by two amuse bouches to start—the gougere filled with a gruyere bechamel sauce was particularly memorable, as was the brioche. The menu is gourmet French, with elaborate descriptions of food. Once we got around to ordering, I had shellfish veloute, venison, and chocolate dessert. My companion had foie gras, lamb, and vacherin. Everything looked beautiful and, best of all, was incredibly flavourful. We had an 1989 Bordeaux from the extensive, mostly French, wine list.

After dessert, small meringues and chocolates were brought out, which we sampled even though we were full. Then the pastry cart appeared, and despite saying I had no room, caramel, nougatine, lemon, and orange lollipops were placed on my plate. They were wrapped, so they went into my purse while I had a creme brulee, which I did not think I could eat but did because it was so good. At least I passed on the tartlets, panna cotta, and various chocolate desserts. There was no extra charge for all the items from the pastry cart, but the bill was as huge as we expected from a top NYC restaurant. As we were leaving, I was given a chocolate brioche for breakfast. I will definitely return after saving some money.