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Brasserie Georges 1836

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nrf
nrf
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5 out of 5
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1
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Brasserie Georges

  • May 5, 2006
  • Rated 5 of 5 by nrf from North Vancouver, British Columbia
Brasserie Georges

Founded as a brewery in 1836, art deco styled Brasserie Georges is one of Lyon’s most dramatic dining spots. Informal ambience invites visitors to relax and enjoy regional French food with wine or beer brewed on-site.

Survival for near two centuries in this culinary center of France is no small achievement but to excel throughout the time is extraordinary. Claiming patronage by a long list of French leaders and celebrities, the restaurant boasts of record numbers of meals served.

Two of us arrived fairly early in the evening. Greeting us in French, the hostess switched quickly to English when she recognized slightly blank responses. We had no reservations but were seated immediately. Diners continued arriving and by 10pm, the place neared its capacity - something near 700 – and hummed happily with a cosmopolitan mix.

Service involved a team approach. Each section had a group of wait staff with rank shown by the clothing worn. Servers in dark suits and vests took the lead, assisted by white shirted juniors and bussers in plain garb. We noted the suits spoke multiple languages while most of the others used only French.

Despite occasional hesitations, our needs were anticipated and the service was prompt and efficient. Diners can select le menu or a la carte. Either way, choices are varied and staff helped us make decisions. One fortunate suggestion was the quesnelle, a delicate mix of fish and mushrooms, lightly poached in a rich broth.

I particularly loved the Gratinée au Madère du Chef, an onion soup with Madeira wine. It left me wondering why I had not ordered this dish for many years. Classic old recipes can be bland and boring or, like this extraordinary masterpiece, prepared with perfection and terrifically satisfying.

A lone diner at the next table had "Les Fruits de Mere" an astounding collection of ocean treasures. Overwhelmed by sheer volume, he offered to share. Seems our neighbor was an Italian gentleman who traveled regularly to Lyon for its outstanding food and wine.

Many choices of dessert were available and, judging by the trays passing our table, the most popular was Omelette Norvegienne, a cake, sorbet, ice cream and meringue combination. Instead, we shared a cheese plate to conclude a pleasurable evening.

From journal A Few Days in Lyon

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