Saigon’s red and earthy colors are eye-catching. Flags, banners and lanterns, a calm central basin, walls adorned with bamboo lattices, hanging ferns, and stone deities and a show-kitchen at one end, all beneath a stark, hangar-like roof. Rattan-weave chairs and oil lamps impart a cozy informality.

We started with crystal (rice-paper) vegetable spring rolls filled with bean sprouts, shredded vegetables, and herbs and served with tangy black bean sauce. My grilled prawn mousse, a typical specialty, was actually more mince than mousse, bound by egg and clumped around two short sticks of sugar cane. It was served with leaves of mint and basil (for flavor) and lettuce (for wrapping). Dip the leaves in fish sauce and chili paste. Then suck the sweet cane for contrast.

Kingklip chunks, simmered in a clay pot in caramel and pepper sauce, were superbly cooked, textured and tasty, again ideal with a dab of chili. Equally simple and just as good was the stir-fried pork and pumpkin. The pieces were flat and firm, done in not-over-rich coconut cream and lemongrass. With these, we ordered stir-fried rice and noodles dishes, the latter mingled with crispy bean sprouts.

Having been to this restaurant several times I must say that my all time favorite is the Duck in Plum sauce on a bed of greens. Do give that a try.

Desserts were not as good as the rest of the meal.