London, United Kingdom
May 19, 2004
As is perhaps implied by the name, the restaurant’s fairly reasonably priced menu is quintessentially Swiss-French in composition. It features a wide range of dishes, but the undoubted speciality of the house is fondue. Numerous interesting variations of the extremely sociable shared meal are available, but my slightly conservative choice was a caquelon containing the classic bubbling mix of Emmental, Gruyère and white wine, which was extremely tasty, especially when washed down with something produced in the relatively nearby vineyards of Vaud.
The dimly lit interior is similarly traditional in style, featuring solid old-fashioned furnishings, heavy wooden beams and plenty of almost kitsch Alpine touches. The only thing that marred the otherwise appealingly rural aesthetic was the rather out of place presence of a television showing sports clips.
However, the establishment has a more cosmopolitan feel than the surroundings might initially suggest because it is additionally popular with tourists and the sizable expatriate community as well as the locals. In fact, the combination of the rustic décor, the hearty smells that emanate from the kitchen and the hubbub of the numerous different languages spoken by the diners produces an intriguing atmosphere that actually seems to sum up the city very well indeed.
From journal Geneva - A truly international city