Description: Visiting a traditional English pub is a must do when in the UK. And where better to do this than one of the city's most famous and oldest pubs. Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese is on Fleet Street right in the heart of downtown London.
Some blogs and books claim the pub is the oldest in the city, yet others claim the title belongs to 'Hoop and Grapes'. Either way, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese is old - it was rebuilt immediately after the Great Fire of 1666; if you don't believe the plaque out front dating the historic landmark, the interior clearly gives away its age. The floors are creaky and look as though they have been refinished many times, complete with a thick glaze. Exposed dark painted timber is all over the walls and ceiling. While the main floor ceilings are lofty, you have to crouch walking down the stairs and when proceeding through doorways.
The pub is clearly identified from Fleet Street - look for the black painted storefront and the large lantern sporting the pub's name. The entrance is down a short alley to the left of the pub - signs ask you to refrain from smoking or drinking in the alley as people live in the homes across from the pub. Immediately inside to door the smell of a wood burning fireplace hits you (we visited in December). The small room to the right of the entrance has a bar and a few tables, and contains the fireplace. We stopped in at 3 pm and there were around eight people in the bar, all of them locals.
We ordered two local draughts - no more than £7 total. In addition to this main bar room there were two other spaces on the first floor - it wasn't clear if one was a dining room though. We decided to enjoy our beverages on the lower level, so we crouched as we made our way down the very old, very steep and very creaky steps. It's hard the believe, but the basement was even more cozier than the upstairs. Large exposed timber beams ran across the ceiling. The walls were a mix of stone and newer brick - the differing materials leading me to believe alterations were made to the basement to keep the floor above from falling below. The tables looked to be at least a couple hundred years old, as did the ornately carved benches along the wall-side of each table. There was at least one more room in the basement - we didn't enter as a great deal of laughter was emanating and we assumed it was a private function.
Menus were on most of the basement tables and the prices were quite reasonable. Here's a sample of what was offered:
- Ye Famous Steak and Kidney Pudding served with Roast Potatoes - £9.95
- Scotch Roast Beef served with Horseradish Sauce, Roast Potatoes and Yorkshire Pudding - £10.95
- Bangers and Mash with Onion Gravy - £8.50
- Braised Pheasant with Bacon, Celery & New Potatoes - £11.95
- Fish 'N' Chips - £7.85
We did not order food, in fact we didn't see anyone eating, but it was mid-afternoon.
I really enjoyed our visit to Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese. There was something special about enjoying a pint in a British pub more than 100 years older than the United States - I couldn't imagine the history contained within those walls. Not to mention, the beer was good!
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