Description: Did you know that tea grows in Europe? Well I didn't until I went on holiday in the Azores.
Friends all said "Where are the Azores?" so I'll start by briefly explaining where these wonderful islands are situated. The Azores consist of nine islands found in the Atlantic Ocean between the continents of America and Europe, Sao Miguel is the largest of these islands and is about a two and a half hours flight from Lisbon. Not quite the middle of the ocean, but a good distance from Portugal, so it came as a surprise to see tea growing. The temperate climate and rich volcanic soil results in lush vegetation and the growth of tropical plants - I can recommend the pineapples!
We were touring the island and were on the lookout for another tea factory mentioned in the guide book, which we knew the bus tours visited, so were delighted to find the smaller factory first, which was very quiet! Factory is not the word which springs to mind when I come to think of this beautiful place where we enjoyed a really interesting hour or so.
There was a lay-by to park in and only a couple of other cars, the large white house, looked all shut up, but that was perhaps to keep out the hot sun. We suspected it was closed but on investigating decided it was open , as the notice said Monday to Saturday 10.00 - 6.00, so walked through the gateway and along a cool tree lined drive towards some buildings, the usual blue hydrangeas and agapanthus were blooming everywhere. A farm worker chatted with a young girl wearing an apron with the name Chá Porto Formoso, and as we neared them, she came forward and greeted us in English, inviting us to see the factory. ( Are we so obviously British?!)
We entered an old building with a few bench seats, some artefacts and modern audio - visual equipment, we were offered a short video, explaining all about the factory and tea growing and given a choice of languages.
We learned that the first tea plants were brought to the Azores from Brazil in the 18th Century, but at that stage were only grown as an ornamental plant. In 1878 two Chinese experts were brought to Sao Miguel to teach the art of Tea cultivation, as part of the promotion of agriculture in the Azores. This resulted in a new interest in tea and there were several small producers. The Porto Formoso Tea Factory was founded by Amâncho Machado Faria e Maia and operated between the 1920's and 1980's. The current owners took over in 1998 and undertook restoring the factory as part of the heritage of the island.
It was soon over and I would have been happy to sit longer in the cool and enjoy more information about tea, but off we went on the tour. We saw the tea on trays in a rack in various stages of drying, and went through the other rooms were we heard the machinery working for a short time, listening to the guide was almost impossible! The botanical name of the tea is Camellia Sinensis and it is the China variety. The Azores doesn't suffer with blights or disease fortunately but the tea still need special care, especially when pruning and disbudding so as to produce good quality leaves. The process is very traditional and includes various stages where the leaves are withered, rolled and either oxidised or fermented and then dried, selected and packaged.
The factory produces black tea of the Orange pekoe, Pekoe and Broken leaf varieties. Orange Pekoe is obtained from the end bud and first shoot of the leaf. It is tightly rolled, black and results in a rich infusion with a delicate scent and flavour. Pekoe tea comes from the second leaf and has a less pronounced scent and flavour and lastly, Broken leaf - is just that! It comes from the particles of different leaves and is less aromatic but more delicate in flavour.
Some of the old machinery was shipped out from Britain over 80 years ago, and was carefully tended by the man working the machine. We ended our visit by going into the tea room and shop, were we enjoyed a lovely cup of Chà (pronounced shar). I was pleasantly surprised as I sipped my tea, a lovely delicate scent and flavour, I found it quite refreshing and we bought some lovely packages to bring home. The 80g packet was very reasonably priced - I think about 2 euros.
The garden had a lovely view over the fields of tea plants and down to the village and sea, there was a covered area, with tables were you could also sit and enjoy your tea and admire the view.
And the cost for this visit? It was free. They were happy to share the information all about tea growing in the Azores, I was amazed. A factory tour, free parking and a cup of tea, and not to forget the use of a toilet and wash room!
Traditional flavour of Azorean tea and hospitality at its best, a truly great find, if you go to the Azores then pay them a visit and enjoy a cup of Chá.
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