July 26, 2003
The 20-km drive from Port de Pollenca to Mallorca's most northerly point has scenery as dramatic as anyone could wish for. Cliffs 400m tall jut into the sea, their weird rock formations attracting nesting seabirds, while pine trees seem to grow out of the rocks. The drive is also famously scary -- a local legend has it that the parish priest and the local bus driver arrived at the Pearly Gates, and only the driver was admitted to heaven. The reason? He had led far more people to pray.
Six kilometers from Port de Pollenca you reach the Mirador des Colomer - walk up the steps for views over a rocky islet. A path opposite the steps leads to an old watchtower from which you can see the whole of the peninsula as well as the bays of Pollenca and Alcudia. The road continues through pine woods before tunneling through En Fumat mountain, where you look down over Mallorca's most inaccessible beach. Eventually you reach a lighthouse with the bar and shop and more stunning views, all the way to Menorca on a good day.
On the way back, stop at Formentor beach and the Hotel Formentor, which opened in 1929 and has been pampering the rich and famous ever since (Charlie Chaplin, Scott Fitzgerald stayed here) . . . The fine sandy beach used to be reserved for the hotel's guests, but democracy has opened it to the masses.
If you don't rent a car then buses to Platja de Formentor run from Port Alcudia (Mon–Sat, 2 daily, 25 min); and Alcudia (2 daily, 30min).
From journal Palma , the beautiful capital of the Balearics