Description: Mestni trg is the central one of three squares in Ljubljana's Old Town which are linked by a largely pedestrianised street, making the area a lovely place to stroll. The name translates as 'town square' and, with the Magistrat, or town hall, located here this was once the very heart of the city. Although there are some pointers as to the true age of Mestni trg, an earthquake in 1511 caused most of the buildings to be destroyed and so the square was rebuilt; what is there today dates mainly from the Baroque period.
Crossing the Triple Bridge from Presernov trg and walking straight ahead you'll come directly to Mestni trg. It's not a grand square that commands instant awe, it's rather modest but picturesque with lots of lovely things to spot if you're willing to spend the time doing so. Presernov trg is, except for a couple of hours around 5 or 6 a.m., a busy place where friends meet and events are held on an open air stage; Mestni trg by comparison is a tranquil place, perhaps because it is usually in the shade; its cafes are more low key and its a nice place to escape the crowds.
As you come into Mestni trg from the Triple Bridge the Robba Fountain is directly in front of you. Actually it’s a replica of the original which has now been moved into one of the city's museums, but it is identical. The monument dates from the mid 18th century and celebrates the three rivers of Carniola (this is the part of Slovenia that rests, geologically speaking, on limestone, or ‘karst’ as it is known in these parts. (For a more detailed description and background of the statue see my review of the fountain in this journal).
No single building dominates the square, not even the town hall, though it is undoubtedly a handsome building. Even for a country the size of Slovenia the town hall looks too small to house the administration of a capital city; in fact the two elegant houses on either side of the town hall were acquired in the 16th and 17th centuries respectively to provide more space. Today the town hall has more of a symbolic role within the municipality. It was originally built in the fifteenth century but was frequently and substantially altered over the centuries. The façade that we see today is heavily influenced by the Venetian style.
Naturally there came a time when such a building could no longer meet the needs of a growing city and today part of the Magistrat houses an art gallery. The ‘Magistrat Gallery’ occupies four of the atria of the town hall building; it’s an unusual art space and one that works very well.
Among the other notable buildings on Mestni trg , Hamanova hiša, or the Haman House, also houses a gallery, this one being the Mestna galerija, or City Art Museum. This gallery is just one of a network of galleries around that town that hosts a variety of exhibitions, focussing mainly but not exclusively on contemporary art.
The Lichtenberg House, Lichtenbergova hiša, is notable for its façade which is decorated with reliefs by the sculptor Osbalt Kittl which date from around 1540. The Skoberne House, Skobernetova hiša, has a façade from around the same period. The Rakovec and Obrez Houses (Rakovceva hiša, Obrezova hiša), were both built by the architect Matija Persky, a prolific architect of the time. Combined, the buildings make a very handsome square that is teeming with architectural detail.
The buildings opposite the town hall back are punctuated with vaulted alleys that lead down to the Ljubljanica River. Little doorways situated off these passages provide access to the apartments above the shops on Mestni trg; I can never decide whether I would prefer to overlook the river or the square.
The Souvan House (Souvanova hiša), is the tallest building on the square and has an elegant Empire-style façade which is decorated with reliefs representing art, trade and agriculture. Today it is home to a very smart glass and ceramics shop. Indeed, if you are looking for some quality purchases, perhaps as special souvenirs, Mestni trg is a good place to look.
My top recommendation is ‘Piranske Soline’ – which means ‘salt from Piran’. Piran is a beautiful old Venetian town on Slovenia’s coast and there are some salt flats just a little further down the coast towards the border with Croatia: this store sells beauty products such as scrubs and bath salts made from Piran salt, as well as the most delicious chocolate that is also slightly salted. I can’t find this chocolate anywhere in Maribor where I live, so I stock up when I’m in Ljubljana. Further along there are antique shops and shops selling good quality handbags, jewellery, shoes and clothing. It’s not the cheapest place in Ljubljana to shop but you will pick up something a bit different here.
Most visitors to Ljubljana will find themselves in Mestni trg at some point. It is directly below the castle and whether you turn left and walk to the funicular, or turn right and take the more strenuous footpath to the castle, you’ll need to pass through Mestni trg to get there. Often overlooked in favour of the more obviously striking Presernov trg, Mestni trg benefits from being a much quieter place to stop for a coffee or a glass of wine. It’s splendid buildings are usually missed when passing through so take my tip and stop for a drink and admire Mestni trg from a pavement cafe.
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