Description

Once part of a Joseon Dynasty provincial government complex, Gwandeokjeong was built in 1448 as a military training facility. The only structure to survive the Japanese colonial era intact, it’s now one of the oldest buildings on the island.

Located in the centre of Old Jeju, opposite the landmark Ribero Hotel and a few steps from the main post office, the pavilion has become one of the city’s requisite photo stops, a constant stream of tourists posing alongside two scenically positioned tolharubang statues. Carved out of black volcanic rock, the exact function of the figures remains unclear - some say they served as protective totems for the gates of the old walled settlements, while others contend they were fertility symbols. Whatever the history may be, only 45 of the original carvings are scattered around Jeju today – along with a couple of million replicas lining gift shop shelves and dangling from key rings. Each of the quirky figures stands just over one meter tall, with a bulbous nose separating round, bulging eyes under a brimmed cap. Both arms are bent at the elbow, hands resting above and below a rotund stomach.

The pavilion itself is essentially unremarkable with the exception of the paintings under the main beam and the calligraphy on the signboard, thought to have been done by a son of King Sejong the Great. The rest of the structure – restored in 1970 – is largely as it was following seventeenth century reconstruction work.

The remainder of the government buildings were finally reconstructed at the end of 2002 following a decade of excavation work which unearthed a number of the old foundation stones. Entrance to the complex is free.