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Kagbeni Fortified Village

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Mutt
Mutt
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5 out of 5
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Kagbeni Fortified Town

  • March 12, 2006
  • Rated 5 of 5 by Mutt from Ankara, Turkey
Kagbeni Fortified Town

This curious medieval town, situated in a fertile valley amidst barren wastelands, is a maze of mud-brick houses and dark alleyways dominated by a massive and imposing red Gompa.

The town's immense strategic importance, located as it is at the confluence of two river valleys, is demonstrated by the presence of the ruins of a 16th-century fort at the heart of the old town. Surrounding this is the tightly packed layout of streets around which a defensive wall with only two gates once stood. These medieval defences made the town so impregnable that it was deemed sufficient to have only two guards, one for each gate.

In the 19th century, the human guards of these two gates were also deemed superfluous and replaced with Khenis (Ghost Eaters). These primitive gargoyles are remnants of the ancient Bon religion that once held sway here and are one of the most curious sights on the trek. The male figure that guards the northern gate is incredibly well-endowed (even by my standards!) while a female figure that guards the southern gate is sadly quite badly worn and in desperate need of repairs.

The distinctive gompa is somewhat verbosely known as Kag Chode Thupten Samphel Gompa (The Monastery of the Place to Stop and Develop Concentration on the Teachings of the Lord Buddha). Founded in the 13th century, by Dga Bzong Po of the Shakyapa sect, it is just as impressive a site now as it must have been then. It’s impressive presence inspired me, as it must have inspired thousands of pilgrims before, to stop and concentrate on the teachings of the Lord Buddha.

The best place to stay in town is the Red House Lodge run by two sisters from a local noble family and housed in one of the oldest buildings in town. Even if you don’t stay here it is well worth visiting just to see the family’s private chapel, which contains a clay image of Amitbha (the red Buddha) and a bizarre collection of offerings left by guests over the years.

The town has excellent facilities, as it is the starting point for the strictly controlled Upper Mustang trek to Lo Manthang, and while it is a little off of the main trek it is well worth the detour.

From journal Bara Gaon: In The Midst Of Mustang

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