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The Wats of Luang Prabang

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On Ground-Touching Roofs

  • July 29, 2009
  • Rated 5 of 5 by SeenThat from Tel Aviv, Israel
On Ground-Touching Roofs

More than anything else, modern Luang Prabang is the religious capital of Laos; few places in Southeast Asia offer richer religious architecture.

On Laotian Temples

The many temples in town date from the 16th century onwards and display different influences, mainly from Khmer, Thai, Burmese and Chinese temples. However, these influences are just that, Laotian temples features a unique – and elegant – look.

The temples include various buildings serving religious and administrative tasks. Despite the unusual surroundings, the traveler can easily identify the main structures: the two main ones are the Assembly and Ordination halls. They clearly are the most elaborated structures in the compound. The Assembly Hall features one large central room where the main Buddha image of the temple is, a preaching chair is located nearby. The pointed roofs feature flat tiles in two or three layers and are considerably larger than the structure below them. Carved woodworks are applied generously between the pillars and the beams. Naga serpents are a popular motif. The Ordination Hall is the place where religious ceremonies take place; the public is not allowed into this area.

How can these two be correctly differentiated? Simply, the Assembly Hall is open to the public, while the Ordination Hall has its doors closed. If a ceremony is taking place, then also the identification is clear, because a monk would make sure the nosy traveler does not enter. The rule is not strict, in Tingboche I was graciously invited to participate in a ceremony within the temple.

Usually, all the other structures in the compound surround the Assembly Hall. Koutis is the name of the monks' dwellings; more often than not it is a simple wooden structure. A smallish, square building on stilts – or any other type of elevated foundation – is where the compound’s library is usually located. Another unmistakable structure is the drum shelter – a fragile looking wood structure housing a drum high above the ground, the last is used for special ceremonies. A similar structure houses a long boat used for races between communities. A wood room on stilts is dedicated for meditating groups, while a similar, but much larger structure open in three sides is used as a meeting point between the denizens and the monks and is called "sala." Some wats features also a cremation temple, they can be recognized by its chimney.

However, the most impressive structure in the compound is the That (stuppa; "chedi" in Thailand). These temples usually enshrine Buddha or other relics and appear in a variety of shapes depending on their location and religious symbolism. They feature a wide base that narrows toward the structure top; beyond this generalization, details change from one temple to another. The Laotian version is especially slim and elegant; the Pha That Luang in Vientiane being the epitome of these structures.

An integral part of the temples are the Buddha statues. The eyes’ shape of the Buddha statues in Southeast Asia is unmistakably Asian, but beyond that the statues appear in all the typical Buddha postures, where each one has a special significance. Yet, there are three peculiarities of Laotian Buddha statues. First, the Buddha doesn’t feature any divine sign – like a third eye – on the forehead. Second, a cranial protuberance appears as a coil of hair on its top. The last is the easiest to spot; Laotian Buddhas features very long and outwardly curved earlobes.

The Main Temples of Luang Prabang

Phou Si

Luang Prabang’s look is dominated by Phou Si, a hill at the very center of downtown on the small peninsula between the Mekong and Khan rivers. A fee is charged for accessing the staircase to the summit.

Wat Tham Phou Si is halfway the top on the side looking over the Nam Khan River, while at the summit is Wat Chom Si. From the last are good views of the town and the rivers; moreover, this temple is almost omnipresent in town, it can be seen from far away. The best sights from the summit are at sunset, when the sun goes down behind the dramatic mountains across the Mekong River, though if seeing it there the majesty of Phou Si itself is missed.

Behind the Mount Phou Si, along Nam Khan River, Wat Aphai features a renovated stuppa and a large Buddha statue.

Wat Xieng Toung

Dating back to 1560, the "Temple of the Golden City" is the oldest monastery in the city and one of its best known landmarks. The very pointed roof, which almost reaches the ground at its lowest point, of the Assembly Hall became the model for later temples. A beautiful garden is home to this temple, which is superbly located one block from where the Khan River flows into the Mekong.

Despite its humble size, this elegant temple is where Laotian kings were crowned until 1975.

Wat Mai Suwannaphumaham

Located next to the Night Market, Mount Phou Si and the Royal Palace, on Sisavangvong Road, this temple is one of the largest in town. The original structure was built during the 17th century, but a large restoration during the 19th century resulted in the addition of the word "Mai" ("new") to its name. Nowadays, it is usually called just "Wat Mai."

The temple was home to the Pha Bang (see that entry in this journal) and during the Lao New Year (Pimay) it is still put there in display for three days, when denizens sprinkle it with water hoping their wishes would become true.

Wat Aham

The Monastery of the Blossoming Heart dates back to the beginning of the 19th century and is located at the very center of Luang Prabang’s night life district. Within it are two large banyan trees ("bhodi," the tree under which Buddha achieved enlightenment) that supposedly guard the shrine for the Devata Luang spirits, the city protectors. Masks of the last – named Phou Gneu and Gna Gneu – can be seen during the Lao New Year festivities. Two statues of two temple guardian can be seen on the front porch; they represent Ravana and Hanuman from the Indian Ramayana.

Wat Nong Sikhounmuang

Built in a mixture of Vientiane and Thai styles, this temple displays the most colorful roof in Luang Prabang, strongly reminding of similar temples in Thailand.

Wat Pha Kham

At the very point of the downtown peninsula is this temple. Non-renovated, it effectively transfers the visitor into a long gone era. Built in Northeastern Lao style, it also looks a bit different from most other temples in town.

Near it is Wat Souvannakhiri a wat consisting of a large colonial house and a small temple containing a golden Buddha.

Wat Sen Souk Haram

With a three-layered roof of red and yellow tiles, the Temple of the 100000 Treasures is one of the most attractive temples in town, especially due to the sharp contrast between the deep ochre color of its walls and a golden stuppa standing next to it. The name originates on the number of stones said to having been taken from the adjacent Mekong River for its construction in 1718. The racing long boat stored in it is especially beautiful. The temple is located three short blocks from the peninsula’s tip, and one block from its Khan riverside, on Sakkarine Road.

Next to it is the Wat Sopsikhalam, which is remarkable for a clay covered stuppa and a large Buddha statue in the garden.

The full list of temples in town is only surpassed by the number of hotels and guesthouses. After seeing the main treasures – and if still capable to walk – the best advice is to let serendipity allow you to discover a still unknown temple. There must be a few of those as well…

From journal The City of the Delicate Buddha

The Wats of Luang Prabang II

  • June 23, 2001
  • Rated 4 of 5 by Overlander from Muscat, Oman
The Wats of Luang Prabang II

This is a continuation of the previous page. Since this is an essentially visual experience, I won't ramble on about wats. Just check out the pictures, and enjoy!

From journal Luang Prabang -- a Lao Dream

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