The Marienkirche (St. Mary’s) is one of the most impressive churches in Germany. It is a prime example of the magnificent brick Gothic buildings that typify the Hanseatic port cities of northern Germany. Although Lübeck has five major brick Gothic churches, the Marienkirche overshadows them all, not only in size but also in beauty.

Construction of the Marienkirche started in 1250, with the original plans calling for a hall church. However, the wave of French style swept through Germany during the 13th century and reached the north in time for the plans to be altered to a more typical Gothic triple-nave floor plan. The magnificent church that was constructed over the ensuing century showed off the flexibility and beauty of both the Gothic style and brick as construction material. The use of bricks makes Gothic churches appear both larger and more impressive than they would have been if built of stone.

The Marienkirche served as prototype for the number of brick Gothic churches that were erected in northern Germany and beyond during the late Middle Ages. However, none rivaled its 38.5m-high nave—the highest brick nave in the world. Its two slender, brick spires were completed in 1350 and soar 125m into the sky—impressive or any medieval construction material.

The interior has that lightness of being that seems to come easily to well-designed Gothic churches. As with many similar churches in the region, the interior colors are light, too, to further complement the amount of light let in by the huge Gothic windows. The church was damaged by an air raid in 1942, and in the process, much of the non-original interior decorations were burnt away. However, while damaging the newer paintwork, the fire exposed the long-forgotten 13th- and 14th-century polychromatic decorations. These have been restored after the war and are the decorations in place today.

At the back of the church are two bells that fell from the south tower after the air raid and fire. They lay where they fell to serve as a reminder of the destructiveness of war. They certainly made an impression on my three-year-old, who for months after referred to any ringing bell as "Campaña nicht kaputt!"

Outside the church is a modern statue (1999) of a devil seated on a boulder. According to legend, the devil was under the impression that the church under construction was in fact a drinking hall. Anticipating the gains that would follow from such venture, he joined the construction team resulting in faster than expected progress. When it became clear that a church was being built, the tricked devil grabbed this boulder—his claw marks are still visible—and planned to destroy the walls. However, he was convinced to leave the church undamaged when told that a drinking hall was being constructed next door—the wine cellars of the adjacent Rathaus.

The Marienkirche is open daily from 10am to 6pm.

Marienkirche, Schüsselbuden 13, Lübeck, Tel 0451-397-700