The two square towers of Stadkirche peak over guild houses on the Markt.
With sections dating from the 13th Century, it is the oldest structure in Wittenberg. The
"Mother Church of the Reformation," it once held the pulpit from which Luther preached
for 30 years (we had already seen part of the pulpit, now removed to
Lutherhaus). The reformer and Katharina von Bora, a former nun, were married
here in 1525, and a carved stone recess on the side of the building commenorates the
celebrated couple, still models for husbands and wives to emulate.
The most striking piece of artwork is the altar by Lucas Cranach the Elder, which was on
display, but probably not in its usual place. It was stupendous and bright with bold
colors, but not showcased, moved to the side while some restoration work was being
accomplished. The restoration of the interior was not major and certainly did not deter
the crowd. A church for the stadt, "city,"--translate "commoners"--it has surfaces
that require routine painting and sprucing up. Still, a sense of awe assured a quiet crowd
today, large, but orderly as they circumnavigated the walls in counter-clockwise fashion.
We were surprised at the number of visitors on April 6th, out of season and with an
unexpected snowstorm with biting winds making that walk from the rail station a tad
uncomfortable, but we were glad we hadn’t waited until summer, when the site must be
overwhelmed.
Near the altar, I tried to imagine the position of that pulpit I had seen at
Lutherhaus, but the structure was a little confusing. Looking back to where the
congregation would have sat, I wondered what kind of idealistic rabble-rousers these
Wittenbergers had been to defy Roman authority and cherish "blasphemous" doctrine
even while its author was being hunted like a common criminal. The congregation here,
as well as their reformer, deserved recognition for their conviction and bravery. (Thanks
to this congregation and others, Luther’s ideas were well-established as the new doctrine
by the time he came out of hiding in Wartburg Castle.)
A separate room off to the left of the altar had more artwork and artifacts, including more
of Cranach’s paintings. We were told not to take pictures, but I couldn’t resist at least
one of the interior and snapped one of the entrance on the way out. Some Scaffolding on
exterior walls announced that this World Heritage treasure would be more beautiful next
time. For today, the greatest story ever told in eastern Germany would reveal its climax
at Schlosskirche, further up Collegienstrasse, where Luther and Melanchthon are buried.
Stadkirche is open seven days from November through April until 4pm and from May
through October until 5pm. Admission is free.