Description: All visitors to Ljubljana see the famous Tromostovje, or Triple Bridge, but not so many get far enough along the river to see the Zmajski most, the Dragon Bridge. It’s not actually very far from the Triple Bridge but perhaps tourists walk along Trubarjeva and think it’s better to turn back as the shops become less interesting. I’d guess that more visitors are likely to find the bridge if they come from the central market because the bridge crosses the Ljubljanica just after the end of the handsome market hall buildings.

The bridge was opened in 1901 and it replaced an old wooden bridge called the Butchers’ Bridge (a brand new modern Butchers’ Bridge opened a couple of years ago further down the river, halfway between here and the Triple Bridge) which was destroyed in the great earthquake of 1895. For reasons of cost the material chosen was reinforced concrete. The precise details of construction were slightly different to the more fashionable methods and it is believed that this was trialled in Ljubljana rather than in Vienna because there would be less fallout should thinks not work according to plan. A Vienna company Pittel+Brausewetter constructed the bridge according to the design of Jurij Zaninovic. This bridge represents many engineering firsts. It was the first bridge in Slovenia to be paved with asphalt and the first reinforced concrete bridge in Ljubljana.

Originally the bridge was named the Franz Josef bridge; it was re-named the Dragon Bridge in 1919. Naturally it gets this name from the dragons that decorate it; there are four large dragons which stand on pedestals at the four corners of the bridge and sixteen smaller ones which decorate the bridge at intervals. They are made from sheet copper and now have that lovely verdigris patina that comes with copper that has been exposed to the elements.

The dragon is a common motif in Ljubljana architecture; if you visit Ljubljana castle you’ll see little wrought iron dragons that attach the lamps to the old stone walls. It’s a symbol that appears on the coast of arms of the city. Legend has it that Ljubljana was founded by Jason; he and his Argonauts are supposed to have slain a dragon, in fact one of the four represented in this bridge is said to be that very dragon. In Slovenia they say that when a Slovenian born virgin crosses the bridge, the dragons will wag their tails: as far as I know nobody has ever seen this.

The four large dragons are quite magnificent. It’s worth taking a closer look to admire the detail such as the scales running down the dragons’ powerful tails and the sharp claws that overhang the pedestal. I love the muscly thighs of the squatting beast and the detail of the dragons’ wings that remind me of the leathery wings of bats.

I love this bridge and its simple, understated design. It’s very obviously a piece of Viennese secessionist architecture but the use of the dragons in the ornamentation makes it feel quite Slovenian. I also love the way that it feels like part of Plecnik’s Ljubljana, even though it was not the work of the man who designs make Ljubljana the city it is today; the material and many of the details such as the lamps (known as ‘candelabras, also cast from sheet bronzed and now beautifully verdigris-ed) tie in so well with the Triple Bridge.

The sad thing about this bridge is the traffic that whizzes by as you try to enjoy it. The creation of a pedestrian zone in much of the old town has resulted in traffic across this bridge becoming more intense and this is a road that leads to the main bus and train stations and the busy inner ring road so it is understandably busy. Still, it’s a sight that shouldn’t be missed so if you find yourself walking along Trubarjeva, keep going until you get to the bridge. It’s worth that extra minute.

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