It’s an interesting neighborhool, Mont St. Martin, the old fortress hill that dates from the 10th century. Apparently, Liege has its share of social problems, and according to one resident of the hill, people still feel safe only here to this day. Amazing, how long a neighborhood’s reputation can persist! It’s no wonder, though, for the hill is replete with monasteries, convents, and little art schools. Who wouldn’t feel safe! Most buildings are guarded, anyway, with iron fences across center courtyards. Peeking through these and down hidden driveways and walks, we viewed gardens, statuary, and 10 centuries of building styles, including the brick Mosan style representative of the Meuse Valley.
Quaintness, even timelessness, charm, and simplicity characterize the hill. It’s easy here to forget the other, generic Liege--as well as the 20th century! It’s only a few blocks up from Place St. Lambert, the center market square, and an easy walk. However, we didn’t hurry, but stopped here and there to read inscriptions on buildings and sidewalk placards, to photograph, and to gaze.
Some of the more eccentric residents navigated the steep street on bicycles in the cold, and they disappeared through dark arched doorways right on the sidewalk. Others in cars turned into communal cobblestone driveways, ancient converted courtyards surrounded by homes and apartments grouped together--for safety. We were constantly reminded of the massacres and occupations of this historic city.
At the top of the hill, across from Holy Cross Church, a turn in the road widens to meet an extra-wide shared drive, where a light stone wall topped with yet another iron fence guards a perfect white house. Nine long windows are all hung with the same white tieback curtains, and potted topiaries are almost the only decoration around the attractive drive inside the gate. Simplicity! Lovely!
Another block to the right, the land abruptly drops off to reveal another hill a little distance away. This is an archeological excavation, where a huge reconstruction or restoration is underway. Interesting! We took pictures leaning over the stone wall. The terraced muddy hill across the way may be ready for me to explore when I return to Liege. For now, I was enthralled with the quaintness of Mont St. Martin.